need some help

so if the ecu is bad is there a point in the engine compartment i can test to make sure so i dont have to break the seal on the ECU i just got???

I don't know of any tests you can do. Have you pulled the codes from the engine yet? I tested my repaired ECU by swapping it with another to see if the probs still existed. They did, therefore, ECU was not the problem.

Pro lens are still there after replacing ECU with a remanufactured one, I've got a TPS sensor on its way. Whats the possibility of it being the MAF sensor?

have you checked the fuel pressure regulator yet? not fuel pressure, the actual regulator.. the symptoms you are discribing sound like its not holding the fuel at the rail for the injectors to pump it under the right pressure

As Slams suggested earlier, if you have not done it. Try...

Might wanna try a fuel pressure regulator.. easy to check and try and see if its working.. just take a pair of needlenose vicegrips and clamp off the return fuel line.. if its running better than suspect a bad regulator.. just a quick test to be certain.

Anything you can do to rule out something without throwing parts at it is a step in the right direction. The regulator is that small (diaphragm) round metal piece on the front end of your fuel injection fuel rail. Give it a shot before you spend money on parts.

I haven't had chance to check that yet my tools were locked up last time i was over at my truck, will let u know when I test it

so i pinched off the line coming off the bottom of the pressure regulator on the front of the fuel rail ad fired it up, no difference but the idle came up very slightly (about 25-50 rpm).


unplugged the MAF and started it still ran but ran a little worse. so would that be a for sure way of telling my MAF is bad?

No, I can't confirm that is the situation. I can pull mine and check to see how it responds again on Thursday. I am very busy until then. If it is the case, I can check at the local wreckers (I know it is good) for the cost.

If it runs better with the maf unplugged then it's bad. It should run a little worse especially if you've removed the pcm recently because it would erase the look up charts and be set back to factory settings. On the tps, you can check it in the accessory position by figuring out which wires are which. One is the 5 volt reference from the pcm, one is the ground, and the last is for the swing arm of the potentiometer. Make sure there is 5 volts going to it and then check the return signal through the whole sweep of the throttle plate.

so i tested the MAF and TPS and all were withing specs except for the fact that both grounds on the MAF had voltage while both on and running between .07 and .43v and the throttle position sensor i tested at the harness with it unplugged and still got readings on all 3 wires. can anyone shed some light on the cause of this and if this could be the cause of the problem???