Progress, and ?'s--Changing head--couple pics added

clockwise

did u remove the rotor from the dist.? if u did, u may have put it on the wrong way....once they get old and brittle, its possible for them to go on 3 ways...check to see if the spacers on the fuel rail are still there, make sure the injector o rings are well lubed..and dist goes clockwise

I took dist apart, so I'll check it went back on right.

Only the new injector is leaking, out of where it goes into the fuel rail--the other 3 are fine. It sprays a fine mist out, so I'm going to loosen the bolts for the rail and see if I can get it off (it's in the #1 cyl or front spot) to check I remembered all new seals on it, and didn't pinch the o-ring or some such.

I was recently helping somebody out that had replaced injectors a couple of times with a couple of oring/seal kits. Three different kits (brands) from three different suppliers had the wrong size o-rings and all three leaked. Most were too large - they wouldn't seal against the injector and would sometimes come off when he tried to install them in the rail.

I was about to ship him my overhauled set along with the seals that the overhaul company supplied. Since he had so much trouble with his, I took a close look at mine before shipping. Lo and behold, my o-rings were too large. The ID was slightly larger than the injector. So I went on o-ring quest. None of my local stores had the official kits in stock - although I really wasn't sure that I wanted a "kit" since 3 "kits" had already failed him. So I ended up buying o-rings from the bulk stock at NAPA. I went with 7 id x 11 od. The injected was about 6.7mm diameter if I remember correctly. They seemed to fit my spare rail nicely so I shipped them. He installed them and said everything has been "dry" since.

If you go looking for o-rings, take your injector with you.

Also, one final note. I think the 89 models and possibly some of the 90 models used different injectors as per Mazda part numbers. So if somebody sold you and 89 injector assuming it was good for all B2600i trucks, then that could be part of your problem. But my guess is it's the o-ring that is giving you trouble.

Good luck and let us know what happens!

On the timing front - make sure you are at TDC on the compression stroke and not the exhaust stroke. May need to put your finger over the spark plug hole to feel for compression. Did you locate and use the notches on the harmonic balancer?

Once you're certain you're at TDC, then install the rotor so that it's pointing towards the 9:00 position (towards the front of the truck) if it's not there already.

Such a sweet Valentines Day story !!

lol cusser.

It lives!

Fiddled with the distributor--I'd scribed marks where the bolts were so it went back in the same position, but then when fiddling with the rotor I can put it on 3 different ways. So I heeed and hawed a bit, taking off the fan and removing all the sparkplugs (side note--on my 'new' head the sparkplug holes were not machined down far enough, so once I have the plugs in, I can't get them back out, the socket won't slip down on the plug. Remedied by finding a sacrificial 5/8" plug socket and grinding down the outer edge), then replacing number one to make sure I was on compression stroke at tdc. I then installed the rotor again as close to 9:00 as possible.

Moved to the injector and after a short fight to get it off found that the o-ring was pinched and twisted when I pulled it out. Let it sit for an hour or two, and it had reformed. A bit of oil, and then set it back in, gave it a twist or two to make sure it was well seated and bolted all back down.

Started up first try. And filled the garage full of nasty smelling white/gray smoke in 10 seconds. Took it out and ran it for a good 10 min, still white smoke.

Let it cool off again, and the antifreeze is still topped off. We'll see tomorrow if I still have white smoke coming out when I go on a short road trip.

Also--runs great except for the noisy rocker arm. I'll have to run some seafoam through the oil and see if it opens up/cleans whatever rocker arm is noisy. But all my previous running horrible issues seem to have gone away for the moment. Now hopefully I'll get decent mileage again.

Mine's a B2200, and after I got my head re-done Oct. 2011, I had to put on about 50 miles to get my valve train (lifters) to shut up. I even called the machine shop back after about 20 miles of driving and break-in, to ask about this, they said to drive some more, they were correct. It returned to typical occasional B2200

Funny, now that I think about it, I'm not so sure my engine has "tapped" for quite a few months. Anyway, in the 18.5 years I've had mine, I never let that bother me.