Progress, and ?'s--Changing head--couple pics added

So. . . . the deer took out the radiator, and I put some stop leak in to get it through a day or two until I arranged for another car. Fixed the radiator, but the stop leak took out the head (I think. . . ).

Yesterday the head gasket went out, so now to change the head and fix the noisy valve as well as the head gasket.

Any special steps I need to watch for? I'll review the service manual, anything I need to get besides the new head and gasket sets?

rebuild the head since your gonna have it off

have a new head from odessa cylinder head, has valves and springs with it. How do I set the valve lash? Found the head bolt torque sequence and values in the pdf manual.

So while trying to get the rear fuel line off the injector bar, I broke one of the little red ends (and think a tiny pin fell out) that goes into the intake. Any quick fixes, or just get a new injector?

Anyone have a used injector close by me (WY)? Or know where I can find one used/cheap?

Thanks

Next question--how to transfer the exhaust and intake studs to the new head? Double nut them out? Heat? both?

Also, from the way the new head is set up I pressume I need to transfer the rocker arms as I bolt down the new camshaft retainers/bearing caps? Or am I missing something here?

Can you guess which cylinders were eating antifreeze?


And what cylinders had valve issues?

to transfer studs i double nutted them and sprayed pb blaster...came off with ease...as for the transfering the rockers and such i would ask the machine shop to be sure they would still function properly

All installed. Studs went quick and easy with double nutting--no penetrating oil needed.

Had to switch the rockers over to the new cam bearing caps--figured as much, the old ones didn't line up (I checked just for fun). Exhaust slides out to right, and Intake slides out to left once you take all the bolts out of the caps (just incase your wondering it doesn't show or explain that in the pdf manual). Keep all pieces in order, and make sure you don't jam the exhaust rockers with the intake before you install the rocker assembly (just a matter of making sure they are set right or rotating them to set right--no I didn't bolt it down like this) Tthe new cam bearing caps came with plugs in them that had to be taken out.

New o-ring on distributor since the old one was a hard flat ring.

Exhaust is bolted back up, including the missing nuts and washers--everytime I look at this motor I'm more and more convinced there was a turbo set up designed for it but never implemented, tons of space on the exhaust side, and the airbox outlet would be a perfect spot to mount a blow-off valve.

Speaking of which--what purpose does the airbox serve? Can I delete it? The pipe from air box to valve cover cracked of course and is harder than a rock. I have a new flex fuel line to fiddle with, but why if not needed?

on my last truck i had from throttle body to maf to filter...no need the box....

got it all together, and. . . . . won't start. Two problems I'm sure about:

1)new injector is leaking, and spraying fuel out the top--looks like I missed putting a new seal on or didn't seat it right.

2) I think my timings off via the distributor--here and there it will act like it's going to start but as soon as it does it kills itself and will barely turn over. I believe it's firing at the wrong moment and thus pressurizing a cylinder(s) at the wrong time hence the can't start or turn over symptoms.

I'm going to have to get it back to TDC (without pulling the valve cover--pita!) and then check my distributor alignment. Which direction does the distributor rotate when the truck is running?