Newbie starting and idle problems please help

Sweet thanks for that, i think it dies when i disconnect it, I think that is the one I disconnected. So I take the side off that has the plug on it to clean the carbon build up?

Could you point out the green test connector? Is that the diagnostic plug under the bonnet?

No, you don't want to try to separate the motor from the valves. I've never done it and I don't think the factory wants you to based on the tamper resistant screws they used.

You just want to remove the whole thing from the throttle body and the try to clean the air passages.

Here is what the bottom side will look like.



There is an o-ring on it also. I'm not sure of the specs on it but it's probably a good idea to replace it. Coolant comes from the head, up through the throttle body, then into the IAC, and finally out the IAC on the outside fitting. If that o-ring goes bad, then you can get coolant into the intake manifold.

Here is the location of the test harness on our trucks. The big green one is use for a Mazda diagnostic box. The single green one ("test connecter") is the one to jump to ground for setting the timing and also for trying to retrieve codes.

If you jump the yellow terminals to each other, it will turn the fuel pump on for testing, if the key is in the on position.

ok cool thanks for that ill have a look tonight. Is there a way to check ecu fault codes with these with out a diagnostic reader. Other cars I have owned there is sequence to follow and then the engine light ect will blink and tell you and codes.

Yep. Same here. Ground the single green test connecter, then turn the key to ON but don't start. Wait for the check engine light to go out and then if it's start flashing, you have codes. Just make note of the number of long and slow flashes.

Also, just realized I forgot to put in the pic of the connecters. If you go back and look, it's there now.

Thanks, which side of your car is this plug located?

Do you have a list of the codes?

Here are the two pages from a 92 manual. I think I would contact your Mazda dealer down there and see if they can give you the codes for your truck since they could be different after 6 years and the fact that you also run on LPG.

Anyway, here they are:

Well the car dies when the iac is unplugged so I can assume that's working, it revs high with the afm disconnected to that seems to be working.

Tried testing the throttle position sensor in ohms it starts with a low number then gets higher I think it was, think that's what's it's supposed to do. I have a 3 wire tps so I think I tested the right ones.

Ecu looks fine inside.

I'm empty on lpg now so I have no way to fire it now.