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Mazda Adjustable Suspension \  Will this 4 link ever work

Will this 4 link ever work

Mazda Adjustable Suspension Mazda Suspension Mazda Tech
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replies 30
following 14
 
mazdawg(mikey)   +1y
Yeah a wishbone, 2 triangulated uppers, a watts link, or a panhard all will help. A panhard tends to pull to one side the higher you lift. A wishbone would be the easiest fix
bodied b2600zx (josh)   +1y
Yes. Wishbone or 2 forward mounted triangulated bars would be what I would do. And if you do that, why not just get rid of the 2 rear bars.

And the other problem I see is that you said its thick wall pipe? That's a big no no. Pipe has high burst strength but its not made to flex much at all. No torsional integrity. The pipe will hold for a while but it WILL break and cause a very dangerous situation. Don't go cheap on your link material. Jus get some DOM. You can buy enough to do a 4 link from suicidedoors.com for like 60 bucks
v8mazda4ever   +1y
Dont do a pan hard bar the only time the rear end is center is at drive hieght what you were doing with the wishbone on top of the rearend will work mint just set everything at ride hieght then weld everything in. I do agree that you should gusset your 2 rear bars you might think they are thick wall tubing but the stress you will have on them lifting the truck will bend them and I would some how add support to your pivit arms you made to give them some extra strength even boxing them a little bit.
xgolferdude   +1y
Something u said that i would want clarification on is you used the word "pipe" instead of tube... The reason I say this I because pipe is used for the transfer of fluid..... That's it!!! Dom tubing is used for link bars, roll cages ect ect.. if u are running "pipe" you need to keep that thing off the road... It's unsafe and can kill u and someone around u... Now if it is DOM tubing please disregard my rant.. a wishbone like u drew should work just fine.. I would out the bags more in the center of the bar and away from the pivot point on link bar... It'll ride very sloopy...
xgolferdude   +1y


Wow!!!!!! That is soooo far wrong its not even funny!!! It's ok if u don't know all the ins and outs of designing a well rounded suspension but please don't just say something to say something.. Lmao
buzz   +1y



Yeah it's tubing I used the wrong term. I picked it up at work and I know for sure it's strong enough. But I think I'm going to gusset the rear links just to be safe. Thanks for all the advice and keep it coming, everyone is giving me, (the newb) a lot of help.
bodied b2600zx (josh)   +1y
Where do you work where you can get tubing that's just laying around? Tubing is seamless. No weld point. Pipe has the weld line and little nipples on the inside of the pipe.

And I agree with xgolf. I'm tired of reading forums and guys who don't know anything about what they are talking about are trying to give advice. That's how so many people get in over their heads cuz they don't know what's true. People jus tryin to get their post count up or whatever.
gandrimp   +1y
Ok I'll weigh in on this.
Lets start with this, I could care less about my post count.
I personally like 3 link w/ a panhard bar. I have never used it in a lowered pickup but I have used it in 2 different style dirttrack racecars ( tough ). I have it in my current hobby, rockcrawling ( very tough ). If you use as long a panhard bar as you can, there wont be alot of side to side movement ( near zero ). The way you have the wish bone will diffiently work and work good, I have just always liked 3 link.
rotten   +1y
lol damn, jack daniels. i didnt even think of that..(ignore my post) haha
buzz   +1y
I work at a brick yard and can get any kind of metal, pipe, tubing, etc... I need at the price they get it. You got me second guessing myself so I went and looked at my pile of left overs, it doesn't have a weld line and it is 1 1/4" OD with a 3/16" wall. How does that sound?