Will this 4 link ever work

Also I have spent hours looking at pics of everyones set up. I see alot more wishbones installed the oposite of the way I drew it in. does it matter which way i put it(one way being better than other) or is it personal preference.

depends on if your going to run factory gas tank in factory location..... if not then it wont matter

I have a 50 50 on my Mazda that's triangulated and unless your truck was built in the 90s I wouldn't reccomend doing again what I did originally..... It's cost me to much dough in rear end parts that are discontinued.....reaks havoc on pinion, and carrier bearings.....I am changing the forlink to a wishbone and bushing ends..... It u want a opinion on the links in your truck..... Cut that stuff off and reuse bottom bars facing forward and build a three link..... I'm baffled by this s10 Interpratation rear set up..... Like what's with those shackles on the front bars I see nothing good coming from that set up even with a wishbone..... Like I say when someone brings me a truck they bought thinking they would save time having work already finished..... Well looks likes there some stuff we can reuse but the rest of the imaginarium is coming off.....

Just saying sometimes its piece of mind to just stop and spend some time getting it safe and useable for the rest of the street and road users.....

Again no no on 50 50 from using one for ten years I can tell u the money and time I spent in the 90s building this truck that I spent way more including a 1000 rear end rebuild with parts that are no longer available......not sure that link shackle set up wOuld even benefit from a wishbone.....

There's one thing I wouldn't cut corners on that's suspension, to many innocent lives at risk..... What I did 15 years ago was the norm and has worked well just there are so many better ways to do it now.....And I would never repeat things I have done before when there's a better way....


And anyone who says they can make a panhard bar have zero shift side to side is wrong unless there car is fifty feet wide..... U can't change geometry even a long full width panhard bar would move the rear end back and forth 5/8 to 3/4 inch side to side through the travel.....if u would like Ican take u for a highway run in my full size with a full length panhard bar and at highway speeds u can feel the truck shifting through the travel when running the bags up and down full ...... During suspension cycling at rise height u can't feel the shift due to lack of travel of more than a inch or two so it's works good but limits my rear wheel width.....I for care if it's a rock crawler or dirt car or UFO u can't change geometry and the physics of it..... If u want that type set up then there's one way to accomplish and that's a watts link..... A awesome set up but not for a novice....thinking of doing a watts on my datsun or Tahoe although my 2 dr Tahoe lacks room to even run a standard panhard.....

Another thin I like to think about when people build a truck and buying someone else's project.... 90 percent of unfinished projects get sold due to a lack of money and 80 percent of that time that means they don't have the money to fix what they have already done because eagerness and lack of planning or research and tryig to run before they could walk.... I have yet to be a part of a purchased project that continued from where it left off and most are out of money cause they have to go back and re do it right.... Case in point my father bought a bagged and body dropped s 10 that has a ton of nice parts but zero engineering.....it looks sick but is undriveable due to lack of for thougt and now we are on the search for a new cab and a total rework.....

From the pics u got it all stripped down no bed and which but just start fresh and use the bottom bars swap them arou d build a simple wishbone and cut that stuff off the rear to make room for your tanks and other hardware....

[quote="jrock4224"]And anyone who says they can make a panhard bar have zero shift side to side is wrong unless there car is fifty feet wide..... U can't change geometry even a long full width panhard bar would move the rear end back and forth 5/8 to 3/4 inch side to side through the travel.....if u would like Ican take u for a highway run in my full size with a full length panhard bar and at highway speeds u can feel the truck shifting through the travel when running the bags up and down full ...... During suspension cycling at rise height u can't feel the shift due to lack of travel of more than a inch or two so it's works good but limits my rear wheel width.....I for care if it's a rock crawler or dirt car or UFO u can't change geometry and the physics of it..... If u want that type set up then there's one way to accomplish and that's a watts link.....

Like I said "I have never used it on a lowered truck" so I could be wrong. You say 5/8" to 3/4" which is probably pretty close in the full up full down range, but it depends on bar length and length of travel. I was more talking about setting at ride height and the normal pothole, rough highway effect on the suspension will be near zero.

You have brought a question to my mind. Do ya'll raise and lower while going down the highway at speed? If so, 3 link is not for you.

The watts link looks cool and know doubt will work, but will it limit the up travel?
Will 3 link work? Yes
Will watts work? Yes
Will 4 link work? Yes
Will the wishbone work? Yes
With all the test being done I never had a chance to ask what suspension the UFO had.

so as long as my panhard bar doesn't move it stays at near zero...right...ok your right then ... but i like to "drop the tail..."

..and not sure why a three link wouldnt work....your thinking to much crawler, not enough taildragger.... the wishbone doesnt have to triangulate over the drive shaft in order to work properly... we are only building mini trucks...not high horsepower articulating beast's...

all i was saying is no on the 50/50 tringulated like i have... its a money pit...and no to the current rear design on op 's truck...nows the time to fix the lower links if you have to fabricate a wishbone and still keep it bag on bar....

Well thanks for all the reply's, I have made up my mind. I'm going to cut everything off and go with a triangulated 4 link. Just have to order some tabs and new brackets and I will be starting on it.



Where is the best place to order tabs and such online?

I'm leaning towards this setup. Its about the only thing I can do with the notch I have. What does everyone think? I don't want to do a big notch. Just trying to keep it clean and simple.

bag on axle gets less lift and doesnt ride as nice

I would challenge anyone that thinks bag on axle don't ride good then u haven't set it up correctly.. a sleeve bag and a good quality shock that is also set up coreextly works fantastic rides well and handles awesome... I'll never understand why everyone thinks lift is so important.. as long as it untucks who cares... Lol