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Mazda Engine Performance \  my turbo build

my turbo build

Mazda Engine Performance Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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dealwithit   +1y
hmmmm what if you hooked up your vacuum advance again? in high vacum they advance more right? and retard when you loose vacum (step on the gas) correct? im wondering if you can mod the mechanism to retard even furter when boost is present in the vacum port? just a thought on that. but as far as controlling the spark with a megasquirt, i would recommend first just using your factory distributor, sending out the signal which would normally go to your coil, to the MS first, then firing the coil from the MS output, which you will have full control over. im pretty sure the MS will allow a 3-1 cam signal (4 spots, but only reads 3 with a large gap where the 4th would be to show the crank has made 2 full rotations), ill have to check on that, or you could as well, if youve figured your way around the megamanual by now



i would imagine just removing one of the 4 bumps on the shaft would be all that would be required
cory_watson   +1y
from what ive read I would have to to use a distributor from a turbo car and swap out the guts in it to my distro housing to be able to control it with megasquirt.



that's a good thread showing what I would have to do. except it would be in the truck housing.


I may buy a extra stock distributor and mess with the stock vacuum advance mechanism and see what I could come up with.

on a side note I bought a rx7 so ill atleast have something to drive once I get the megasquirt and wont have to rush the tuneing process.
dealwithit   +1y
really? hmmm im pretty sure the stock system shows enough of a signal, and im pretty sure 4-1 is an acceptable pulse, im just going over the mazda distributor online. if you were to use it for signal and spark you would need to lock up the advancing system so it cant move. i assume you might need to move a connection around inside it as to get 2 signal wires out of the distributor, i think they also have ignitor built in that you might need to bypass to signal right to the MS. that would save you needing to buy a efi distributor tho



im still reading through to find if there is any actual counts that work for teeth numbers, but it seems its fully adjustable as long as the math ads up.
cory_watson   +1y
the only wires on my distributor is one single black and single blue that goes to the coil. I have never had my distributor apart to check it out, last time I did a cap and rotor I never took the time to remove the dust cover under the rotor. you may be on to something to save some money which always helps out.
cory_watson   +1y
I would probably be better off using wasted spark as you did, seems a lot easier and those parts are cheap. did your MS come with the instructions on how to wire the wasted spark? also I was reading back through your build thread and seen you didn't use a IAC did that cause any problems?
tarbell   +1y
Love watching the progression on this! I am in the process of finally building a B2600i for myself and this time, no expense spared. I have a completely re-built motor that I am breaking in and will be looking to boost it. In for the updates.
cory_watson   +1y
it really excites me to know people have enjoyed my build thread and are interested in what I have done to my truck. to me it's just a old rusty work truck that I originally started out saying "I believe ill turbo this thing and see how long it last". when it didn't blow up after the first couple months that's when I realized I could auctally make something fun and fairly fast out of it.
cory_watson   +1y
small 3rd and 4th gear pull. its hard to video by myself please excuse how shaky it is.

tarbell   +1y
Very nice! I have got to figure a way out to do my B2600i....
dealwithit   +1y
umm it didnt come with any instructions, but i read up on the MSextra forums for advice on it, its pretty simple actually. i had a problem with my board/assembly i think, as i couldnt get the pmw iac to work properly on my stimulator, so i just said screw it, its summer time anyways, ill add it in later if i need it, and just never got around to it. just kinda acted like a carbed vehicle when first starting it, but if you have enough cold enrich and a decent idle it could be freezing out and it will still start and run fine once warmed up. keep asking if you have anymore questions regarding setup/tuning, ive been playing with tunerstudio the last week and going back through all the setting to get my head back in the game again lol, this stuff is fun