Sunset Joe's 85 Toyota

I'm running a fused distribution block.

Basically I use what I have on hand. I do stereo stuff more often that you might think, so I have a few hundred feet of 4 gauge and a little less 0 gauge. I have a limited supply of 8 gauge (not enough to run to the dist. block without some unions) because I don't use it much. I generally just run 4 gauge for dual compressors anyways, and 8 gauge for single. Comes from the stereo state of mind, I always run overkill wire, because you don't have to upgrade it if you upgrade your equipment later on. Also all of the fuse blocks I have on hand are 4 or 0 gauge input.

Doing some plumbing and wiring. First shot shows valves plumbed on the tank. Second is some 9 wire cable, with bullet connectors to attach to the AVS switch box. I had to use two sizes of heat shrink to cover the connectors, but it made it easy for me to match the length of the heat shrink on each one, making it look uniform. Before I started, I slipped a piece of 3/4" heat shrink over the cable, and when I finished I pulled it forward, and shrunk it so about 1/2" of wire is visible so that I can still see the color coding on them. Last picture is a shot of the toggle switch I used to turn give or cut power to the pressure switch. I like this style toggle because it looks very factory, and blends in well with black plastic. Most people won't see it.

Those mitsu arms look rad. I might be working on a mitsu for my buddy in 3-6 months. I will definatly cut some of my time and just buy those. I won't need the hole in the lower arm though. It will need some tabs for a heim joint cause I don't play around with silly bags...

Ya I figured you would just need a plain plate. Lol. Let me know. I did these narrowed a bit. I played with different lengths on the upper/lowers to get a small amount of camber gain. Well, smaller than stock. I got the truck on the ground today, only about 2 degrees of change through 8 inches of travel. And it can turn about 30 degrees with the escalades on it in each direction.

How is the toe change? I built the arms on my Mazda and I get some toe change. I havent measured it, but it is enough for me to notice.

Probably about the same as your Mazda. I measured it, and had about a 1/4" of change through 8 inches. That's a little more than I get with my Toyota arms, but it's acceptable. It's a lot less than an S10.

toe change has to do with where the tie rod attaches to the spindle and where your steering mechanisms are located in relation to your a arm pivots. just making new arms won't change that.

I changed my upper arm pivots.
I was just wondering because I don't like how much mine changes. I am going to leave it though. I don't see it absolutly necessary to start moving my steering.
Thanks for you help.

Got in some Tech Flex so I finished up the wiring. First shot is the valve wiring. Second is the power wiring. Third a close up of the Tech Flex I mentioned. Fourth is the switch box wired up and the bulk under the carpet.

If you narrow your control arms all of the movements become more severe. Camber gain, toe change, etc.

A shot of the finished shock towers, and one of the wheel turned with the new narrowed control arms.



Truck is done now. Just waiting for it to be picked up so I can turn the Toyota around and Z it.