Typical B22 tapping noise

do you have to go to a mazda dealer to get it?

i have a napa "oem" one and its a slight tick, re adjusted valves is also a plus.

The information contained within this thread prior to your post references a problem which occurs only with those with hydraulic lifter assemblies (HLA)

None of the B2000's had them, stock.

Bulletin No.: 005/95
Issued: 3/28/95
Revised:

Category
B

Applicable Model/s:
All HLA Models

Subject:
HLA NOISE AFTER LONG STORAGE

APPLICABLE MODELS/VINS

A primary cause of HLA noise is the result of oil draining back to the crankcase during long periods of storage. Category B of the applicable workshop manual contains diagnostic information to determine if the HLA is normal or requires replacement. Instructions in the manual will be revised in the 1996 manual.

Follow this procedure to determine if the HLA requires replacement.

NOTE: Service Managers should make a reference to this bulletin in the applicable workshop manuals.

DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE

1. Check engine oil and replenish if necessary.

NOTE: If the oil is dirty or a service interval has been missed, replace the oil. Inform the customer of the need to change oil and that this is not covered under the normal vehicle warranty.

2. Run the engine to normal operating temperature.

3. Increase the idle to 2,000 - 3,000rpm and maintain this speed until HLA noise stops or 20 minutes.

NOTE: Do not exceed 20 minutes. Currently the workshop manual states 10 minutes, this will be revised in the 1996 workshop manual.

Watch the engine temperature during this operation. If the temperature exceeds normal range, reduce the engine speed to idle until the temperature returns to normal.

If the above method does not eliminate the HLA noise, the following may be the cause of the noise:

a) Low oil pressure due to clogged oil pump strainer

b) Oil pump internal problems

c) Faulty HLA

Refer to the workshop manual for additional troubleshooting information for items "a" and "b" above.

If the HLA is suspected as the cause of the noise item "c", identify the faulty HLA and replace only those that require replacement.

While poking around in a database. . .I found this:

NO: TSB-99-11-006
DATE: June, 1999
MODEL: See below

SUBJECT:
VALVE LASH ADJUSTER CLEANING

PURPOSE

This bulletin contains cleaning procedures for valve lash adjusters. In many cases, cleaning valve lash adjusters can extend their service life. Mitsubishi Motors strongly suggests cleaning and inspecting lash adjusters before considering lash adjuster replacement.

AFFECTED VEHICLES

All models equipped with valve lash adjusters

PROCEDURE

! CAUTION A Valve lash adjusters are precision mechanisms. Do not allow them to become contaminated by dirt or other foreign substances. Do not attempt to disassemble valve lash adjusters. Use only clean diesel fuel to clean valve lash adjusters.

1. Prepare three containers. Place enough diesel fuel into each container to cover a lash adjuster when it is standing upright.

^ Container A will be used to clean the outside of the lash adjuster.
^ Container B will be used to clean the inside of the lash adjuster.
^ After cleaning the adjuster, use Container C to fill it with clean diesel fuel.

2. Place the lash adjuster into container A and clean its outside surface, using a nylon brush if necessary.

3. While gently pushing down the internal steel ball using stiff wire (0.5 mm diameter), move the plunger through 5 to 10 strokes until it slides smoothly. This will remove dirty oil from the lash adjuster and loosen the plunger.

! CAUTION The steel ball spring is extremely weak. If the wire is pushed in with too much force, the lash adjuster will be damaged.

If the plunger remains stiff or the mechanism appears to be abnormal, replace the lash adjuster.

4. Remove the lash adjuster from container A. Then gently push down the steel ball and push the plunger to remove the diesel fuel from its pressure chamber.

! CAUTION On DOHC engines, point the oil hole toward container A. Do not point the oil hole toward anyone.

5. Place the lash adjuster in container B. Then gently push down the internal steel ball using stiff wire (0.5 mm diameter). Move the plunger through 5 to 10 strokes until it slides smoothly. This will clean the lash adjuster's pressure chamber.

6. Remove the lash adjuster from container B. Then gently push down the steel ball and push the plunger to remove the diesel fuel from its pressure chamber.

7. Place the lash adjuster in container C. Then gently push down the internal steel ball using a stiff wire (0.5 mm).

Do not use container C for cleaning. Foreign matter could enter the pressure chamber.

8. Stand the lash adjuster upright with its plunger at the top, then push the plunger downward firmly until it moves through its furthest possible stroke. Return the plunger slowly, then release the steel ball and allow the pressure chamber to fill with diesel fuel.

9. Remove the lash adjuster from container C and stand it upright with its plunger at the top. Push the plunger firmly and check that it does not move.

If the lash adjuster contracts, repeat Steps 7 through 9 to fill it completely with diesel fuel. If it contracts again, replace it.

10. Stand the lash adjuster upright to prevent the diesel fuel from spilling out. Do not allow it to become contaminated by dirt or other foreign substances. Install it in the engine as soon as possible.

WARRANTY INFORMATION

Standard warranty procedures apply. Use the appropriate "Auto Lash Adjuster Cleaning" labor operation code.

'nuff said. . . .LOL

well there ya go. my truck has a tick sometimes at start. it stuck around close to 5 mins after i started really low on fuel and drove (slowly lol)to the gas station, and proceeded to slowly go away after about 1 min after getting gas. but i know/suspect a lifter issue too. there is a constant ticking near 2500-3000 rpm then no more from there on or before. this is an all the time occurrence.