Page 1 of 9
Mazda Projects \ Sickkidz 89 b2200Sickkidz 89 b2200
views 19802
replies 88
following 20
sickkid
+1y
Well after all the trucks and cars Ive ever toyed with, Ive never actually done any kind of build thread on one. But I guess it'd be nice to look back on and maybe help someone else. And If your like me I like seeing pictures, so ill try and take as many I can throughout the build.
1989 Mazda b2200 5spd x-cab(or whatever you call them on mazdas)
Plans include rims, shaved taillights w/some kind of l.e.d. conversion into the tailgate, roll pan, some kind of mirror conversion, phantom billet grill, new front bumper, shaved door handles and antenna, a system: probably either 4 10's or 2 12's and 2 10's and components, basic bag set up: torsion brackets in the front and either bridged bag over axle or bag on bar, little bit of interior work, paint, and possibly a traditional body drop.
And this is what im starting with. Not too beat up but definetly needs some work.
1989 Mazda b2200 5spd x-cab(or whatever you call them on mazdas)
Plans include rims, shaved taillights w/some kind of l.e.d. conversion into the tailgate, roll pan, some kind of mirror conversion, phantom billet grill, new front bumper, shaved door handles and antenna, a system: probably either 4 10's or 2 12's and 2 10's and components, basic bag set up: torsion brackets in the front and either bridged bag over axle or bag on bar, little bit of interior work, paint, and possibly a traditional body drop.
And this is what im starting with. Not too beat up but definetly needs some work.
Post was last edited on Jul 06, 2011 02:07. This post has been edited 1
times.
sickkid
+1y
Just got this yesterday from 1hotdawg. Plan on scuffing inbetween the bars real good, taping off the billet (face) and shooting the rest with some dupont 99a (pitch black). Still undesided on wether im gonna plastic weld the cracks in the grill and scuff the chrome and paint over it or if im going to get another grill. Other than that some mother's and elbow grease should do the trick.
sickkid
+1y
Some Misc. parts I got for it last week.
16x7.5 factory H3 rims. Picked up 5 of them in really good condition from a guy who bought some aftermarkets for his H3. Plan on plastic welding the "Hummer" logo flat, shooting them with some Dupont F9657 (a subaru BBS gold), and maybe adding a vinyl mazda logo in the center.
the header, didn't really want to get much engine wise but kind of needed it if you see the pick below.
16x7.5 factory H3 rims. Picked up 5 of them in really good condition from a guy who bought some aftermarkets for his H3. Plan on plastic welding the "Hummer" logo flat, shooting them with some Dupont F9657 (a subaru BBS gold), and maybe adding a vinyl mazda logo in the center.
the header, didn't really want to get much engine wise but kind of needed it if you see the pick below.
sickkid
+1y
Misc. parts cont.
Heard this was a good idea over the paper one that comes with the pacesetter
Since i went the cheap route with the header i decided to sand off the black shipping paint and spray it with some black ceramic header paint.
When i bought the truck the factory carb wasn't acting right, and since ive only ever dealt with fuel injection i desided to just replace it. Plus i like the fact that it will clean up all that egr garbage cluttering the engine bay.
Heard this was a good idea over the paper one that comes with the pacesetter
Since i went the cheap route with the header i decided to sand off the black shipping paint and spray it with some black ceramic header paint.
When i bought the truck the factory carb wasn't acting right, and since ive only ever dealt with fuel injection i desided to just replace it. Plus i like the fact that it will clean up all that egr garbage cluttering the engine bay.
sickkid
+1y
Weber install
started on the weber carb this past thursday and got it put in and running(quite poor for the time being) in about 2-3 hours. Like many other people have said the kit didn't come with a throttle return spring tab but i guess its ok, plan on fabbing a block off plate for the egr valve and hopefully incorporate a "tab" on in. Got most of the egr stuff out of the way but still have to do the wiring portion.
I was kind of waiting to completely finish off the weber install partly due to the fact that i didn't want to mess anything up by not having a fuel pressure regulator. But i got that and a gauge from fedex today so hopefully this weekend sometime i will be able to finish the install. The fuel pressure regulator is a Holley 12-804 (1-4psi) and a Mr. Gasket in-line gauge.
started on the weber carb this past thursday and got it put in and running(quite poor for the time being) in about 2-3 hours. Like many other people have said the kit didn't come with a throttle return spring tab but i guess its ok, plan on fabbing a block off plate for the egr valve and hopefully incorporate a "tab" on in. Got most of the egr stuff out of the way but still have to do the wiring portion.
I was kind of waiting to completely finish off the weber install partly due to the fact that i didn't want to mess anything up by not having a fuel pressure regulator. But i got that and a gauge from fedex today so hopefully this weekend sometime i will be able to finish the install. The fuel pressure regulator is a Holley 12-804 (1-4psi) and a Mr. Gasket in-line gauge.
88mazdab2200
+1y
Looks like your moving right along! What kind of deal did you get on the header and carb? Keep the pics coming!!
sickkid
+1y
Will try to keep the pics coming along. For the header i paid 133.99 after shipping and such, for the weber i paid 259.95, bout 10 for the manifold gasket from a local parts store, and 55.90 for both the fuel pressure regulator and gauge after shipping.
As for the FPR question, ive seen people on here running it without one and run and such just fine from what they say......but the carb does say it requires less than 3.5psi and from what i have gathered the electric pump puts out about 2.8-3.6 psi which if that is what i had i would probably be ok with that, but mine has the mechanical pump which operates at around 3.7-4.7 psi. Thats probably the only reason i decided to get the FPR, plus it wasn't to expensive. Rather get it than mess up the carb somehow and have to spend another 250 for another carb. Also you said you are running without the evap canister right? do you just have it open or do you have a line or something running away from block. Ive thought about doing away with it aswell, just would like some ideas.
As for the FPR question, ive seen people on here running it without one and run and such just fine from what they say......but the carb does say it requires less than 3.5psi and from what i have gathered the electric pump puts out about 2.8-3.6 psi which if that is what i had i would probably be ok with that, but mine has the mechanical pump which operates at around 3.7-4.7 psi. Thats probably the only reason i decided to get the FPR, plus it wasn't to expensive. Rather get it than mess up the carb somehow and have to spend another 250 for another carb. Also you said you are running without the evap canister right? do you just have it open or do you have a line or something running away from block. Ive thought about doing away with it aswell, just would like some ideas.
dropped90(justin)
+1y
Welcome to the site man. Glad to see a carolina guy on here. There aint but about 50 of us now haha.
-Justin
-Justin
91extcab
+1y
gonna be bumpin that number to 52 in a couple months justin... and i think we have less of a presence here in washington than back east... it always seems to me that more members are in the south, and then a few on the west coast or in arizona... lol