dat dood
+1y
So, I've been around the forum a lil while now and decided to do a thread on my lil B2200 project/daily driver. A buddy of mine nicknamed it "The Throwback" because everything being done is low-buck backyard kinda stuff. So here goes:
1988 B2200 LX with factory air, PS, CC, chrome tail light trim, door handles and front bumper trim. Bought grandpa-fresh with 214,000 miles. Original motor, trans, etc. Small oil leak, doesn't smoke.
I swapped in a manual choke 32/36 Weber, Pacesetter (into single chamber muffler w/ turn down under bed), electric fan, tinted the windows, added a Pioneer Head unit with new mids and highs and and old Orion HCCA 250R amp on one 15. And, for the outside, I found some old Z-71's and threw new 205-40/16's on them and installed a used chrome grille.
I'm currently running a static drop with c-notch. The rear is monoleafed with a two inch block and NO shocks (the pumpkin is currently "kissing" the bed floor) and the front has NO shocks, bumpstops removed and indexed torsions (just enough to preload the front). I really don't want to sink money into the current suspension setup because I'm only short some steel, one pump motor and two hoses and I'll be ready to juice it. Two pumps, four dumps, 48 volts, 10" cylinders in the front and 18" cylinders in the rear. I'll include a couple pics to show just how back yard it is.
1988 B2200 LX with factory air, PS, CC, chrome tail light trim, door handles and front bumper trim. Bought grandpa-fresh with 214,000 miles. Original motor, trans, etc. Small oil leak, doesn't smoke.
I swapped in a manual choke 32/36 Weber, Pacesetter (into single chamber muffler w/ turn down under bed), electric fan, tinted the windows, added a Pioneer Head unit with new mids and highs and and old Orion HCCA 250R amp on one 15. And, for the outside, I found some old Z-71's and threw new 205-40/16's on them and installed a used chrome grille.
I'm currently running a static drop with c-notch. The rear is monoleafed with a two inch block and NO shocks (the pumpkin is currently "kissing" the bed floor) and the front has NO shocks, bumpstops removed and indexed torsions (just enough to preload the front). I really don't want to sink money into the current suspension setup because I'm only short some steel, one pump motor and two hoses and I'll be ready to juice it. Two pumps, four dumps, 48 volts, 10" cylinders in the front and 18" cylinders in the rear. I'll include a couple pics to show just how back yard it is.
dat dood
+1y
Grandpa fresh!
The first cut!
Plated!
The results:
What do yall think? I like it for a lil daily.
The first cut!
Plated!
The results:
What do yall think? I like it for a lil daily.
col. sanders
+1y
Nice work on the mini notch I'm gonna do the same thing, one day soon. Did you cut side markers into the front bumper end caps?
tucnrim
+1y
looks good, how much room is there between the frame and ground?? looks like you are almost laying frame.. lol
dat dood
+1y
No side markers, just small pieces of reflective tape from one of the previous owners.
I measured out the c-notch so that it will lay frame on 205-40/16's or the like. The forward leaf spring hanger was 2 1/2" from the ground so we did a 2 1/2" mini notch. Once the bed floor is cut it will lay in the rear. But for now, it's about 1 1/2" from hanger to ground. If I have to I'll swap to a 3" block and angle cut it for a happier pinion angle.
Whenever I get around to juicing it, I'll pie cut the UCA's and pocket the LCA's and flip the ball joints. It will all be done CHEAP, with rattle can paint etc. It's a driver and meant to be fun and not care if its dirty or scratched or whatever. Just gotta be dependable!
I measured out the c-notch so that it will lay frame on 205-40/16's or the like. The forward leaf spring hanger was 2 1/2" from the ground so we did a 2 1/2" mini notch. Once the bed floor is cut it will lay in the rear. But for now, it's about 1 1/2" from hanger to ground. If I have to I'll swap to a 3" block and angle cut it for a happier pinion angle.
Whenever I get around to juicing it, I'll pie cut the UCA's and pocket the LCA's and flip the ball joints. It will all be done CHEAP, with rattle can paint etc. It's a driver and meant to be fun and not care if its dirty or scratched or whatever. Just gotta be dependable!
dat dood
+1y
Quick question to the guys that are or have been juiced: What cylinders have you guys ran in the front? The 10's look to be a bit long; have yall ran a 10" cylinder or is an 8" cylinder the most I'm gonna fit?
mazdawg(mikey)
+1y
Truck looks good man. It's on its nuts! I think 8" cylinders are what fit in a Mazda but not sure