Painting...could use some pointers.

Just painted it again... Looks like hell. I'll take some pics and post Monday. Damn this is frustrating.

This is as bad as it gets...


As good as it gets...


I imagine it's still a pressure/mixture issue. I'm going to get the Binks siphon feed out and try again after I sand this mess off again. That HPLV just isn't working for me.

mazdalade paint has no mark up other than typical.... unless u mean from the companys like dupont or ppg....i worked in the jobber side of automotive paint for 16 years....the paint companys raise there prices cause they pigment is expensive....some color more than others....i am only gonna say thisonce ....if this single stage is metallic u cannot i repeat cannot color sand and buff it... the pigiment is suspended in resigns and has no barrier ...like clear coat.... to allow u to sand ... if u sand a metallic single stage u are sanding the edges of your metallic pigment off and your paint and it will never look right or unifform....orange peel is product of two things too much product... or too little product... yes i said that ... in paint theres only one thing that makes a break a paint job, technique...hence if u orange peel the first coat u cant do what most say and bury it under more paint .. .your magnifying it....its also a product of using the wrong reducers...when i paint a complete iuse the reducer a temp up from the range i am in.....on completes i always use a warm reducer....it takes along time to get around a car...and i dont want the wert edge to be dry when u get back to it... granted its way easier to run with warmer reducers ... but me persoanllyi would rather sand out a sag on a fender and have a slick paint job ... then try to sand a golf ball falt...even if u manage to get it flat ..once u polish it it will look ropey....its all technique....tech niwque technique technique... i watch peopel buy a 900 sata gun and go make it look like a maaco job... but i also have seen a 140 dollar spray gun turn out a nice clean paint job....its all about the effort your willing to put in... i reccomedn o anyone to start small .. do a ender or a door or practice... i would never reccomend for the first timer to do a complete... never ... it takes me a hour or timeto map out how i am gonna get around a car and keep the edge wet...simple rule i told customers... paint drivers side roof...paint all the way down the pillars... swap to other side....do same.. return to drivers side andpaint the side ... whole thing if its not to long... remeber u only have maybe 8 minutes to get back tot hat edge u left... quickly eturn o passenger side dragg te pillars down with a coupl passes ....immediately return to the hood..go across the hood....hit the passenger side edgywith a light coat to keep edge wet and hit the trunk and rear apron...qucly ... then return to passneger side and paint the side...i like to work up the panels sometiumes depending n the light but i dont reccomend that to newbs either....`its way easier to run paint up hill then down...over lap is so important along with gun speed and distance into the finish you are painting....thees so many vairables... i went to a guys house once where he couldnt figure out why one side was glossy as fuck and the other side was modeled and orange peely....i said easy yor inlet window and fan aer on the smae side of yo r car all the air flow is going down one side and flashing yor paint off way faster than the side with stagnant air....

. comparing a binks syphon and a hvlp is like pitting the omish against a ferrari... two totally diferent techniques... i could paint a shop truck in about 1.5 hours with a binks model 7 while hvlp would take me three times as long.... you have to remember your cloud is now no air and all product ..... and to get the atomization u need it take a different set up in the gun and at the hand ...most peoples problem they set there hvlp above 20psi...hvlp is about transfer efficieny, how they do that is through a smaller cloud ... and less paint .. .whats that tell u ... its gonna be a much slower operation....hvlp is so technique orieneted it defeats the house hold garage painter before they even give it a chance... u fire up that model 7 at your garage uarnetee u u will have the police there...they will follow the cloud of over spray floatig down the road... and that will be your money floating away...take the time and learn the benefits and technique ....model 7s made everyone think they were a painter cause ther are a hose...u thoug materials were expensive before ...wait till its all onthe floor, walls, neighbors cars....

myopinion u werent patient opened up the fluid adjust ment and pounded paint on till it had no choice but to peel up ... i imagine u have solvent pop like a mother fucker too....u cant just bury the solvent...u cant just blow paint on heavier when its not going well....u just wasted all the time and money trying to force something u cant force...tv has ruined peoples idea of what paintin and prep work is...its hard and its nt just a half day poject and u got a oem finish....if u follwed the instructions on the can u mixed i right.... dont vary themix ration but u can vary the reducers....and that will affect your over all appearance...saying other wise or doing just shows whoever is telling you that is not a experinced painter nor knows what it really take so produce a beautiful paint job....

and for the last fucking time ... wet sanding and buffing is done in the thousands not 320.,.. i wouldnt final sand primer with 320....minimum is 500 wet in my opinion and EXPERIENCE, and thats for a solid color... u will buff through the metal trying to get 320 grit scratches out....my polishin regimin ends in 2000 grit...after starting at 1000....secondly the fastest way to ruin any paint job is wth a buffer.... wesanding and buffing is not the norm in refinshing its a tool to reair things like runs or dirt.... inevitably being a garage paint job u have to own that u will be buffing the entire vehicle...so u better make your plan to include 3 coats minimu of single stage cause buffin is just removing material to get a uniform finish....thats is also why i encouraged the garage painter to move towards base coat clear coatsure it s more money and more product but in the terms of flexability uin a garage u cant beat the finsh u can create through cut and buffing...and in fact ... and experience base coat clear coat is easier than single stage but moer time consuming as your going around the vehicle ten times...and when people would say hmmmmm i dunno its more money... well u could be doing whats going on here and buying materials several times....so spend it now or latter i dont care....i cant even see the pics u posted and know u are struggling with it ... stop changing things like guns and take the time to learn and absorb what is happening and what u can do to make it better...the hvlp will save u time and moeny if u learn to use it ... if u grab it and expec it to be a binks model 7.... welll your gonna have a hot sticky mess of a a money pit...you cant keep going over crap expecting it to turn into cake...but what do i know....

















all garage paint jobs....

if u say orange peel is caused by water or oil ... u have no idea ... those cause a very different issue.....the only thing that controls orange peel is the painter....whether its throught technique or reducers...nason is a industrial line sold to maacos and earl schiebs... there piant is a derivitive of dupont but definately not the same... maaco shops also use either enviro base by ppg or omni... omni is cheap ... but its cheap cause they use far less pigment and more resins.....which means transparent.... they also cut way back on uv protectants in there clear... read.... last not long...cheap is a relative term when it comes to paint.. i tell people u wanna paint your stuff right 3500 in materials from the first sanding to the final buff and assembly... wanna go economy materials still 1500 but plan on it last about three to five years depending on how u take care of it...

and for gods sake motor guards filter is called a toilet filter oll cause it looks like one...MOST DEFINATELY DO NOT PUT A TOILET PAPER ROLL IN IT, THAT WILL NOT AND WONT WORK AT ALL AND WILL CAUSE ALL KINDS OF CONTAMINENT ISSUES...DO NOT, I REPEAT, DO NOT PUT A TOILET PAPER ROLL IN IT....AND U MOST DEFIANTLE CANNOT SAND A METALLIC BASE WITH OUT REAPPLYING AND IF ITS NOT A ACTIVATED BASECOAT IT MOST DEFIANTELY WILL REACT POORLY.(LIFTING AND WRIKLING..)...HE HAS SOME GOOD INFO AND SOME BAD INFO...take it for whats its worth as do my post .. i know i sound pisseD but im not.... inFo is only good if u choose to use it and learn....BY THE WAY WHAT EVER YOUR GUN EADS AT THE GUAGE IS FAR DIFFERENT AT THE TIP....every gun has different pressure drop through the gun body so theres not set amount it differs...by the way the moment any paint lifts or wrinkles just stop ...stop and wait for it to dry .. u might get kucky and sand it out and get it to lay down but cances are no... to late ...

any solvent based paint out gases .....anything solvent is only a application agent...it has to out gas... all my poilish jobs sit for a minumum of 24 hours but not longer than 36 before i polish once u pass 36 hours the paint i starting to get to hard to polish... hence its called polish window...ut never and i mean never use 320 or 400 with out the premise off painting....its not a reccomended grit for polishing .,. u wont find a jobber that would tell u to start above 1000.... its proposterous to think u could poilish w/ anythng else...any one one tha works for a jobber and says there is 75 percent markup is just trying to convince u to come to them for sme back door 100 deal i am sure the jobber doesnt know about...i worked for and help build a store to 22 locations on the west coast and on a given year we were lucky if we landed in the 30% profit margins.(mostly in the HIGH 20's).. and the paint companys dictate what u can charge shops ...so if u wanna lose your paint line as a jobber and i seen it happen... go ahead and mark up past there set price...u wont have that line in a year...both dupont and ppg are both very set in there jobbers and what there jobbers charge shops or walkin...secondly...now i do powdercoating .. .any questions on that...lol


fer the record both the blue and the green datsun are both single stage dupont ....acrylic enamel...no one believes me when i say that but it is .. the factory colors were only availbale that way and i didnt feel like custom matching a color to the factory color.. plus there datsuns...

look nason is a cheap line of dupont i use nason full base all the time also i been using toilet paper in my motorgaurd for a long time u just reuse the plastic sleeve in from the motor guard one here r sum of my car club paint jobs done in a shitty wooden shack and a toilet paper filter and u sayin about brand paint i used some of the best which they stopped making due to VOC ppg delta clear wasnt the most expensive about 200 gallon kit they came out with ppg shopline JC6700 high solids euro clear works great holds up great especially in the florida sun lays like glass too but here r some pics i guess to each there own

I updated the photos so you can see them. It's not metallic. I'm adventurous...not an idiot. I know better than to even try metallic on my first attempt.

I started wet sanding the truck last night and have gotten it pretty smooth in places. I'll lay a few more coats of paint on it and wet sand/buff and be done with it. I was going to try the Binks 7 I have because I've painted with it (not a vehicle) before and it came out well...nice and smooth.

Next time I'll do it in a two stage process if I ever attempt it again. I wish I would have just taken it somewhere to have it painted now. Weather is getting colder so I'm fighting a loosing battle.

Thanks everyone for the tips. Greatly appreciated.

Kandies in a dirty ass garage just wet the floor when sprayin come to think i havent seen anyone post up kandies they did to me i wouldnt waste money on single stage

yeah man if u were around my area i woulda helped ya base/clear to me is much easier and better my first paint job was a beater truck single stage garbage after it outgased i cleared over it came out alot better but would never mess with single stage again been doing base and kandies now i have alot of paints gallons half gallons ppg deltron 2000 and some shoplines and some chroma-base full gallons like i said my buddy works at a paint shop so i got the hook up i could make u a good deal on some if u would like ima pm ya my number

edit ... i like your paint not my style but wood butcher if your sanding clear coat u used over flakes... heavy gnarly flakes then go ahead and start with 320.... it takes a ton of clear to do paint jobs like above and although not my style i can appreciate the time and dedication it takes to turn those out....I'm not arguing with you, i'm telling you that's it...full base is meah... at best ...there's better bases for the money.....just be glad its not water base yet ....cause u would take any painting knowledge u had with solvents and throw it out the window..wb is ghey....lol... bit its coming..ppg delta product up here is all fleet stuff..... poly's and acrylics...used by the likes of freightliner, ups and gillig and others .... the delta up here is very hard and not polish friendly....I'm sure the toilet paper works but so does a rock as a hammer in a pinch....toilet paper has all kinds of delinters and fragrances that reak havoc on air supply..... dont ask your buddy cause if he told u to do that then he should lose his job at the jobber.... cause if the motor guard people knew they would also tell u the same things... I mean u dont use a drier sheet to tack your bases off do u..

please tell me u dont do that....im not bashing you or saying your work sucks so stop with the puffy chest ...maybe inthe future wen something goes wrong in a paint job u can think of something i said and it may help u figure out what thee cause ... or u can think i think your a idiot...(which I dont..although 24's n a mazda?!?)no i dont think u are) and get all but hurt and not appreciate someone sharing knowledge with you....i seen the way u took it in your thread so its a coin flip...


WAIT...so u choose to use ful base over dbc base.....ok maybe your crazy..then