threads
Page 2 of 4
Mazda Projects \  Bagged and Bodied 1990 B2200

Bagged and Bodied 1990 B2200

Mazda Projects
views 13169
replies 36
following 11
 
bagged dually   +1y


I know what you mean by that man. I build every part I can. Custom doesn't come in a box, you fabricate and make custom. About the only exception to this rule is my brackets and end links for my 4 links. I live about a mile up the road from Guiltybydesign customs and its awesome when it comes time for little brackets and gussets and stuff. It's great being able to drive literally a mile and get everything I need in one stop with no waiting for ups or payig some crazy high price.
hunterw   +1y
Welcome man. The mazda looks to be pretty solid with a few minor changes. Fit looks good!. And i was keeping up with your dually build on ds for quite a while. I was also wanting to swap a 12v into my 97 dually. But keep the pics coming man
bagged dually   +1y


Man it'll hopefully all be worth it when the cummins swap is done and everything is back together. That project has been one of the slowest most tedious trucks I've ever built. A 5" body drop and a cummins makes for a hell of a hard time try to get everything to fit again.
If you ever decide to do your Cummins swap hit me up. I've learned a lot over the course of doing mine.
bagged dually   +1y
I went out today and ran a return line off of my mechanical fuel pump. If you look closely if the engine pictures you can see someone in the past has took a piece of rubber fuel line and bent it over with a hose clamp. My feed line has started to swell up and cause issues and I was told by some of the guys on here it was because of the return line. I just hooked back into the stock metal line and had to drill a hole in the top of my plastic fuel cell and was able to reach inside it and put a nut on a pipe fitting. I used a little section of hard line to run into the factory section. Hopefully it'll be big enough. Better to be a small hard line that no return line I guess though.

I also moved my vaccuum advance hose from the webers middle port to a port on the intake. The carbs port diet hardly make any vaccuum and the truck kinda felt sluggish. So I'm thinking maybe it wasn't getting enough vaccuum from the carb. The port I used on the intake has a lot of vaccuum and so far it seems to be making the truck a lot peppier.

I've had an air leak for a while also and finally looked at it today and figured out its my leader hose. I think I'm going to just run a York pretty soon. I love the York setups for the steady air supply, rapid refill times, no electric draw, and the life expectancy is a lot better than cheaper 12 volt units. I may just keep the little viair on board just in case the York ever did quit on me.
fdugn545   +1y
also moved my vaccuum advance hose from the webers middle port to a port on the intake. The carbs port diet hardly make any vaccuum and the truck kinda felt sluggish. So I'm thinking maybe it wasn't getting enough vaccuum from the carb. The port I used on the intake has a lot of vaccuum and so far it seems to be making the truck a lot peppier.
[/quote]



Good idea there I think I might try it out! Is there any downfall to this?


Fred

Paycheck to paycheck minitrucker
thread post photo
bagged dually   +1y
There are no negative effects that I know of unless the extra vaccuum allows it to advance the time to fast and to far but I doubt that'll happen. Try it out and as long as its running better stay with it.
I think all this is really doing is giving the engine more timing quicker in the power band. The intake port is probably giving the distributor more vaccuum at 1500 rpm than the carb port could have given it at any rpm.

Let me know how it works for you.
bagged dually   +1y
Well I took the truck on about a 200 mile road trip tonight. It was mostly interstate driving and the truck actually did really well for its first time on that long of a trip since I've had it. The only 2 things that really stuck out were things that were already acting up and just became worse on the trip.
Issue 1 is the rocker arms. Trying to figure out how to convert the 2.2 over to mechanical adjustment arms instead of these hydraulic arms
Issue 2. The rear a me is howling super loud now. I'm not sure what year it is and hopefully you guys can help me with this. The rear axle is a 5 lug out of a Toyota but I don't know what year toyota axles were commonly used for this swap or which ones could be about the same width and diminsions. I'd like the to find one with a little higher gear ratio so my truck isn't turning 3,250 rpm at 70mph lol. I can deal with that later though if you guys can point me in the direction of the right axle.
daryncalton   +1y
Very nice. You're not to far from me.
mazdafvr   +1y



I just recommended this to someone, it gives it better throttle response at bottom end, the timing advances earlier so it may not do any more than it did at high load/rpm but it deff. helps the bottom end in my case anyway
bagged dually   +1y
Ya your not to far away I don't think. I think I've heard of that little town before. I think it's up north east of Joplin isn't it??
The vaccuum line thing really does work wonders if you can find a stronger source. I had lots of better ports to choose from since all the emissions junk went bye bye with the weber swap. Makes my truck a lot more responsive in low rpm situations which is 99% of what my truck is used for other than on the highway where I'm having to turn 3000+ rpm just to run 70mph lol.
I'd say its a great thing to do to get some quicker timing and won't hurt anything as long as it doesn't push the timing so far advance that it starts getting some detenation.