help :/ blown engine

Hey guys, may have just blown my engine, is it worth rebuilding? Any easy sumwhat cheap swaps I can do. Anything helps kinda having a bad day since its my only rig.

im sure you can find the same motor for cheap however, if its blown you might wanna make sure a rod didn't go through the side of the block b4 u decide on rebuilding. lol that shit sux, a lot of people do the kia swap (99 kia sportage motor and some other years) and will gain you 50 or 60 horsepower, its the same block pretty much just with a dohc and fuel injection. it will bolt up to our tranni, mounts ect. you gotta use the kia harness and computer and mazda oil pan, few things like that. I hear its a fairly easy swap

Hey thanks man. Ill have to look into a little more. In thw mean time anyone else have any more info or anything.

"New" rebuilds are about $1,500 Plus a water pump...usually includes return shipping of the core. I believe Clearwater has heads for around $6-800. If the bottom end is good and you just put in new seals, bearings, and rings yourself you might be able to get away with around $1K for a rebuild.

Cheaper way is to swap in a junk yard or know good motor - could be more work depending on the engine you choose.

If it were me I'd try the new rebuild route if I wasn't mechanically included and planned to keep the truck - Provided it was in good shape body, mechanically and interior wise.

I thought I only needed a new head gasket when I got my truck. I pulled the head to find it was cracked in 2 places. So I ordered a new head kit from Odessa and changed the head, water pump and timing belt. I changed out the oil and filter. The oil was so thick it looked like a ball bearing sticking out of the hole. After poking at it a couple times with a screw driver clumps start coming out. This didn't help my confidence any. We tried to start it after we installed new hoses, wires, plugs, distributor cap and rotor. Oh and belts. The truck would not start. So I took it to Mazda. The distributor had been jerry rigged for another model. New distributor and harness $650. The secondaries on the carn wouldn't open. Carb rebuild $400. Oh and I also installed a pacesetter header and got rid of all the Cali crap. They got her running but it was smoking like a freight train. I got to drive it for three days before the new timing belt broke. I have a truck with 3k dollars worth of new parts and its all useless with tje bottom end being shot. I dont know if I should try to rebuild the bottom end or just set the truck on fire and walk away.

That's about what's happened with me, I payed a guy to rebuild it last year in December, I put a weber on it after I got it back and the pacesetter header and all new exhaust but I've had trouble with it ever since. I'm debating parking it and just doing an engine swap.

that's some bad luck fellas, I didn't do a full rebuild or anything but I did a new head and rings (discovered I need bearings but owell, ill get them later) and it took a week or two cause I had nothing but problems at first. but I found a bad vacuum leak and retarded my timing, just had to mess with it a lot to get it right, and I mean I did a lot of timing adjustments, from belt to dizzy, valve adjustments, looked for vacuum leaks, took about two weeks but I found a major leak, (vacuum from brake master to intake) and got it to quit dieing. I went home every day after work and messed with it, cussed at it, threw shit, till I finally got it. id give it a try to open the bottom end up, u might could save it, if not owell its not too hard to pull it apart to see what kinda shape its in anyway.

I rebuilt my B2200 engine Oct. 2011 (new pistons/rings/head re-done/new connecting rod bearings) without pulling the engine, to cure its smoking issue (183K). I've been very pleased with the results, now at 195K.

I have a link to the rebuild thread at the signature part at the bottom iof my posts. It cost me like $700 out of pocket. I did not do the crankshaft journals or main bearings or oil pump. Water pump had been done a few months earlier, but I decided to wait until the weather got better in October.

if you know what your doing its a lot less work to do it with the motor still in. I just unbolted the driver side motor mount and jacked it up some so I could pull the oil pan out, the rest was gravy. but this way you don't gotta re connect all the hoses and wires and bolts, I just set the intake aside with all coolant and vacuum hoses and carb still attached, pulled off the manifold, and was able to yank the head in about an hour. I just replaced my head with one from a 2.0 and re did my rings, (should have done bearings but didn't have them and didn't wanna wait a week to get them) and no more smoke, no more waiting for cylinder 2 and 4 to start firing, no more nasty oil blowing out of my valve cover, major improvement. I probly spent about $250 total but I had a donor truck with a new head. that included rings, $90 bux (didn't wanna wait a week for them either, could have just paid 60) intake mani gaskets, 10 or 20 bux, head gasket, 60 bux, and oil/filter, 20 bux, and water pump, but I installed that b4 I did head and rings. and I don't even member how much that was.

Figured out what was wrong with it, Bad pcv valve( I'm an idiot, new to all this) but It also looks like the rings are either bad or put in wrong cause I got a lot of blow by. :/ I just don't feel like rebuilding an engine that doesn't have any power. I've been reading a couple of swap idea's and I've been really looking at the 302 swap.