Newbie needing some help!

I have done a '92 4.3 GM v6 (180 horses) engine w/ automatic from a pickup (a/c and alternator too high on the van engine) install. Only change I had to do was drop-design the cross member under the engine to clear the oil pan, and of course make the saddles for the late '70's motor mounts and transmission support.
I used an adapter plate for a two barrel carb and used an '85 4.3 distributor, no bot at all, a drop-in fit. The Mazda shifter can be reformed and used, or run a manual transmission. If yours is an automatic and you want to go standard, the post is there under the dash already to slide the clutch pedal on!


Chances are from what you typed, the crank journals will be very abused looking. You probably spun a rod bearing or two.
Quickest fix will be just an engine swap. Before you buy the engine, look at the exhaust ports in the head, that is where burnt oil has to pass to get to the tailpipe, chalky would be the dream color. These engine usually run a long time (200,000 miles) if you keep them cool, oil changed and IN THEM.

Update!!!

So I pulled my motor this morning and opened up the bottom end. The #1 piston's rod bearing was completely gone and found it all shredded to pieces in the bottom of the oil pan. I was able to start the engine and drive it up the drive way before I pulled the motor. I pulled the crankshaft and the rest of the bearings looked ok. The crank journal for the #1 piston was blackened a bit but looked better than I thought it would for not having a bearing. I'm going to go ahead and try to get the crank cut for bigger bearings and go that route. I couldn't find a machine shop close by that was open since it is the weekend so going to have to wait till Monday.

I did check the compression on all the cylinders before this happened and had about close to 170 on all of them except #1 which had about 140 psi. So I know that's good. But I also checked my oil pressure and it was on the low side. Don't know if the bad bearing would of caused it or if the oil pump is going bad. Might have to replace that as well.

Anyone who's done this before know how much it's going to cost for the machining and new bearings? Ball park figure. Thanks again guys!

Sadly, you will have to pull the head too. The rod for number one got very hot and beat around by the crank rod journal, in doing this it changed shape, not to mention the wear of spinning without a bearing between it and the hot crank.
I say this from experience. I drove my '77 Smokey and Bandit 6.6TA TransAm off Spencer mountain in TN to McMinnville, 17 miles in less than 17 minutes, where I coasted to a stop, locked crank. As the crow flies,, this is probably 10-12 miles.
I had a friend tow it home, pulled the engine, replaced the crank and oil pump. At first startup, it had a rod knock, which stopped shortly when the rod warmed up. It had that rattle for the next 100,000 mile in two years when I started it, when I sold it. Point is, do you want that rattle everytime you start the engine, or worse, spin another bearing? Always wondering at excess of 100 (at 4 grand speedometer was pointing down at the m of m.p.h.), if it would let go this time.

After you get the crank out of the way, put the cap back on the rod, put the nuts on, torque them and use telescoping gauges (check these with mics) or a dial caliper to measure the i.d. of the rod bore. It will (top to bottom, not side to side) be greater that engine specs: 2.1261- 2.1266. At least the one rod will need resizing.



On the positive side, great compression!

update!!!

So pretty much what Geterdun suggested, I did. So pulled the rest of the motor apart and took the crank and Pistons to the machine shop. Thanks for the heads up Geterdun! The crankshaft journal where piston #1's bearing went to crap is salvageable but the middle main bearing journals side wall has been wiped. So their in the process of finding another crank for me. Also I found out this motor was a 2.0 liter! The crank was labeled fe50. So not the original motor. I knew something was up when I replaced the valve cover gasket and saw the valves where adjustable. So while they look I figured I'd ask you guys, are these cranks interchangeable? If I found a 2.2 liter crank can I use it?

Also the guy at the machine shop mentioned if he couldn't find a crank he could weld the side wall and cut it to spec. Is this recommended or should I keep looking else where if that's the case?

The crank from a 2.2 will not work, as it has a longer throw than a 2.0. If you can't find a replacement crank and the machine shop where you have yours feels like they can weld it up, I'd vote for letting them repair yours. In the meantime, I found this one at Autozone.com


and Napaonline.com

Awesome thanks for the info! Looks like I'll be giving autozone a call tomorrow.

If he welds the surface up and machines it to specs, the crank will need to be magna-fuxed be sure it is not cracked. It would be sad to break a crank after all of this.
In my machinist experience, I ground cranks for one year. We did this, even built up journals and turned them down on hard to find cranks.
Surely you can find an engine in a salvage yard.
For the cost this is getting to be, maybe this is a good time to do an engine upgrade if you plan to? I found an early '90's Chevy 4.3 v6 pickup for cheap, pulled the engine and transmission for mine.



Can the 2.2 rods and the crank be changed, or is the distance from centerline of the crank to the top of the block different? Or the piston's wrist pin hole distance to top of piston throw that choice off?

EDIT: Most engines, they make a thicker thrust bearing to allow for the wear of the crank thrust surface, due to it being pushed against the thrust "washer" by the clutch release bearing when the clutch is disengaged (pedal is pushed down> disengaging the clutch), See if there is one available thick enough [to take up the side slack].

Update!

So finally got some good news! Machine shop called me today and found me a crank! They also found me a piston rod to replace the #1 rod that had damage. So I'll be getting a refurbished crank, rod bearings, main bearings, 1 piston rod and the other rods checked and cleaned up for $305. So all I need is to order my gasket set and should be in business by next weekend. Even if I had pretty good compression should I go ahead and throw in new piston rings? Before I tore it apart I got around 160-170 psi on 2,3 and 4 and 140 on 1.They told me $50 more dollars if I wanted them.

You are this close to a complete rebuild, I would.
Lap the valve too while you are at it, replace valve seals, you have a completely rebuilt engine. Should be good for a coupla hundred thousand miles! About all that would be left would be cam bearings. I would replace all the freeze plugs, just on principal. They do rust through, eventually.

I don't know how many miles are on your engine but you might put a new oil pump on it while you have it apart.