91 B2200 back from the grave

Hey guy, got a long story on this so bear with me. I got this truck about 10 years ago for $1. Yes thats right $1. Guy I worked for wanted it gone when he sold his house. He was seasonal and didn't run it much. The only problem was it smoked like crazy when you first started it, when it had been sitting for awhile. I didn't mind that much as I just used it as my light duty work truck. I used it for 4-5 years probably, and never had much trouble with it. It was a great little truck! Had a couple fuel, maybe carb related issues, but mostly they worked themselves out. But then in a few weeks time it just started running like crap. Could barely get it even started, and had to hold the throttle wo to do so. I thought it was a carb problem and didn't wanna mess with that stock carb and all those vacuum lines. I had 2 other running trucks so I just parked it.

Now I wanna put it back to work again. Currently it has 161000 miles. So last fall I started researching. Found out the smoking was most likely the valve seals, and learned about the weber carbs and got one. I was lurking around here and the truckin forum learning about those. Got the Haynes manual and started studying and seeing what I would need. Got a timing belt kit with water pump, along with a valve seal kit, and some miscellaneous gaskets. I didn't really get much done with it over the winter, as I had other things to do, and I hate mechaniking when its cold.

So I started back on it here recently. After thinking about it most the winter, I decided I better do a compression test before I get any farther. Since I have to take off so much to do the valve seals, better make sure its all good before it goes back together. I like to fix things right the first time, and I want this truck to last many years after I'm done. So the first 2 cylinders were good ~145psi, #3 50psi, and #4 120psi. So that was not so good. I worked on it off and on, and as of yesterday, I have the block on an engine stand and all thats left in/on it are the pistons and crank. So far the only thing I've found that was bad was the key and keyway on the front of the crank for the timing gear. It's boogered up pretty good. Not sure if its something that could be welded or not. Haven't paid much attention to the cylinders yet, but I could still see some hone marks in them. Also the #3 cylinder's head was alot blacker that the others. The bore measured 85.85mm at the top with my cheap digi calipers, so I'm guessing its stock.

So, just looking for some experienced advice with this guy. What should I look for, what should I go ahead and replace? I am a decent home mechanic, always worked on my own vehicles, unless it was something major or something I just didn't wanna do. This is only the second time I've ever pulled a motor, and first time ever tearing one down. I looked around online and couldn't find new motors anywhere, rebuilt ones were like $2k, and I don't wanna used one. So I'm kinda stuck with getting this one up and going. I do have a good mechanic friend who is about to swap one of these motors with a v-6 and will prob let me get the old one cheap, but again I don't want used. If I've got it this far, I'm putting as much new as I can afford back in it. Which I can't really afford much, but a little at a time I'll get it. Here's a couple pics

Oh and already planning on a pacesetter header and I'll prob go ahead and throw a new oil pump on since I'm already in there. I don't know about any machine shops around here. Where I am everything is at least an hour away anyway. I did check the crank end play already and it was good. Gonna get some of the cheap t-bore gauges so I can check out the cylinders. Still gotta do more reading to find out what all I can actually check. I'm guessing I'll just need to take the crank, block, and head to a shop. Anybody know about what its gonna cost me for a rebuild? Oh and my clutch froze up somehow, haven't really checked into it yet, but when I was taking the pulley off the crank, it was just turning the motor. That was with it in gear. And the clutch pedal won't go down, even if I take the lid of the reservoir.

I have a used pacesetter for sale and a weber carb also

Maybe the crank in your friend's engine is good? otherwise add a crankshaft turn yours in as core, don't try to used a crank with a bad keyway, putting too much money in it for that.

That v6 sounding better now?

Thanks for the detailed response. My buddy is the one doing the v6 swap. He's got engine and tranny and gonna fab everything to make it fit in his truck. I think he'll let me have his motor for about 500. He paid 200 for it and got the flywheel turned and put a new clutch in but couldn't get it to run right and ended up just parking it. He thinks its the carb or maybe jumped time. I was wondering if that broken key way is common, as it could be his problem too. He had to get it out of his shop and never took the time to really look into it.

I was gonna get some of the cheap t-bore gauges to check thepiston better. I know the top measurement is inaccurate, but figure if it had been bored over I would be able to tell.

I already have the water pump, and figured it was just common sense to do the oil pump as well.

I really don't know much about the head or cylinders on vehicles. I am a decent 2 stroke mechanic and know how to measure for out of round, taper, ring end gap, etc. I will look into it more and find out what I gotta do. My buddy did tell me to get the head job done. I already have a lot of what I need. Didn't think about freeze plugs, thanks. I have seen the cheap piston kits with gaskets and bearings on eBay for about 150. Anybody had experience with these? For that price I kinda figured they were crap. Hell I paid 115 for my 4 wheeler piston

Thanks, I have a weber already. What kinda header, painted or ceramic? I'd be interested for sure

Its brand new. Only had been run for startup. It was copper plated and it peeled as soon as it got hot. So basically it needs recoated.

From what I've read, there's prob not much point in repainting, or is it just the factory paint that burns off so easy? My plan was to just go ahead and wrap whatever I got. What would you let me have it for shipped to 28774? I have paypal or am on ebay if you could or wanted to go that route. I read a lot of your build thread too, nice job!

Also found cusser's rebuild thread, so that info will help me. Looks like he used the same pistons I was looking at. Gotta find out where a good local shop is to take this thing, and find out how soon my buddy will be pulling his motor, so I can get a hopefully good crank.

Honestly, i was just going to header wrap it myself if i used it but sold the truck it was on.

Ill get you a shipping quote today sometime

Well, got my bore gauges yesterday. So at latest this weekend, I'll get to my shop and get everything checked out. Still looking for a shop I can go to around here. Everybody I know that has used one before, including me, the shops are no longer in business.