?? Best suspension for Drifting???

Of course the truck will have a 4G63 and LSD. Gimme your opinions

I would say a link set up with coil overs and STIFF springs but thats just my guess im no 'drifter'

im no pro wtih the engine ur working with but will it work with an solid axle or independent rear end... if its independent do coilovers all the way around. if its solidaxle you could run springs with traction bars... but the ideal set up would b a 4 link with a swaybar

Rear Suspension
Drifting or drag racing there are differences in the way you set up for each.

I have mine set for both so it is the best of both worlds, not that I am a drifter but I did read tons of info on each before I built my rear suspension. Trust me, it is not your average rear suspension
if the mightyd50 wasn't poisoned by a virus I could get the info easy. It's all still on the Internet so you'll want to find the the link to one called burning rubber, at airtalk

I'll shoot from the hip and try to explain it, but you need to do your own home work and don't take my word as the gospel
Basically, for drifting you will want the front link pivot point higher the rears. this will want to pull the tire up of the ground, hence loosing traction.
Drag racing is set up with the front pivot point lower than the rear, this will plant the tire harder n the pavement.
If you have seen older cars drag racing, when they take off the rear of the car will squat down
The back of the car will lower, pulling the tire loose from traction. (good for drifting)
Then you'll see cars where the back goes up, this push the tire down for traction (good for drag racing)

Like I said, do your own home work to get all the facts. If your going with a 4G63, maybe later a turbo.
You WILL want the best of both worlds, no sense in building something if it's not want you want later.
My truck has more pictures on car domain, do a search on 86 Mitsubishi mighty max and you will see more of how I did mine. Yes, it is a lot of work, No sense in doing twice it will be the same amount of time as doing it once....lol
I hope you get inspired to read much more about it, and go all out. I mean why do something half ass, if it's worth doing, it's worth doing it right the first time....Not that mine is spectacular, but it works and people say the damnedest things about it when they see it. That's what we are after, correct?
(functional, and eye candy)
I hope did some justice here and helped you.

If you have seen older cars drag racing, when they take off the rear of the car will squat down
The back of the car will lower, pulling the tire loose from traction. (good for drifting)
Then you'll see cars where the back goes up, this push the tire down for traction (good for drag racing)

I believe you have these backwards, you would want the back of the truck to go down for drag racing because it will plant all the weight on the rear tires, and you would want the truck to lift the rear for drifting.

They drift pretty good with the stock suspension and a 4g63t but a nice stiffer setup in the rear will help tremendously, not only will it not squat as much but that force that would be used to sqaush the suspension can now be used to move the truck forward. Another thing that will help a little bit would be some custom polyurathane motor mounts. DO NOT GO WITH SOLID MOUNTS (complete metal mounts), as doing so will rip the truck apart and you lol. You will want a turbo that can put down some good power, I would say go with a 16g to keep your power range right in the middle and upper end, will you be running dsmlink? If so get yourself a cyclone intake manifold and hook up the secondary runners via ecmlinks WIKI. That will give you some torque down below and plenty of power up top, perfect for drifting.

Sticking with the 14b spools earlier then the 16g so the 16g should be easier to control. I'm scared to get sideways, see my back end swing out gtfo of the way. I don't drift, I crash.