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Body work and Paint \ shaving handals and warping doorsshaving handals and warping doors
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replies 22
following 23
KEEF
+1y
The only way to do shave a spot and do it right is to either reskin whole panel(Grant method) or cut out the spot to be shaved so there is no rolled lip then make a filler that is same thickness metal and trim it so there is a 1/32" gap around perimeter. Make it the same shape as the spot then put it in exactly flush using magnets and begin to tack skippin around and hammer and dollying where needed for exact level patch. I like to get the patch about halfway tacked all up then go ahead and take cut off wheel and clean all the tacks up being careful not to get it to hot. Then continue to tack till its filled in and grind again carefully. Once u get done it will be like there was never a hole there and that lip not being there and the 1/32" gap left around patch will help minimize warping plus the 1/32" gap lets ur weld become part of the skin so once u grind there is still plenty of weld left. Here's a start and finish pic of side marker shave on my 72 Suburban fender, also the 3rd pic is backside.
DawgsledMazda
+1y
easy to shave handles without warpage. just tack and blow with air to cool. dont get in a hurry. now shaving handals I dont know about.
6ftundr
+1y
take your time.. ive warped my one door too even though i cooled it but i guess wasnt cold enough. really take your time and cool it after you weld with compressed air or a cold damp rag and make your next tack, repeat until youve made all the welds to secure the filler panel well.
BigJay43
+1y
take yur time for sure dont let the metal heat up so it does warp.
I warped the fuck out of my doors first time weldin
I warped the fuck out of my doors first time weldin
clean cut creations
+1y
Originally posted by PAINTGUYEKS
The only way to do shave a spot and do it right is to either reskin whole panel(Grant method) or cut out the spot to be shaved so there is no rolled lip then make a filler that is same thickness metal and trim it so there is a 1/32" gap around perimeter. Make it the same shape as the spot then put it in exactly flush using magnets and begin to tack skippin around and hammer and dollying where needed for exact level patch. I like to get the patch about halfway tacked all up then go ahead and take cut off wheel and clean all the tacks up being careful not to get it to hot. Then continue to tack till its filled in and grind again carefully. Once u get done it will be like there was never a hole there and that lip not being there and the 1/32" gap left around patch will help minimize warping plus the 1/32" gap lets ur weld become part of the skin so once u grind there is still plenty of weld left. Here's a start and finish pic of side marker shave on my 72 Suburban fender, also the 3rd pic is backside.
The most important thing that PAINTGUYEKS said was to cut the stamping out of the panel. Cutting this away relieves the strees in the panel where the recess was stamped. If you just put a filler plate in a stamped hole the metal wants to naturally sink in in this area. Cut away the stamped area and put a flush patch in. That is the way we do it with no warpage.
The only way to do shave a spot and do it right is to either reskin whole panel(Grant method) or cut out the spot to be shaved so there is no rolled lip then make a filler that is same thickness metal and trim it so there is a 1/32" gap around perimeter. Make it the same shape as the spot then put it in exactly flush using magnets and begin to tack skippin around and hammer and dollying where needed for exact level patch. I like to get the patch about halfway tacked all up then go ahead and take cut off wheel and clean all the tacks up being careful not to get it to hot. Then continue to tack till its filled in and grind again carefully. Once u get done it will be like there was never a hole there and that lip not being there and the 1/32" gap left around patch will help minimize warping plus the 1/32" gap lets ur weld become part of the skin so once u grind there is still plenty of weld left. Here's a start and finish pic of side marker shave on my 72 Suburban fender, also the 3rd pic is backside.
The most important thing that PAINTGUYEKS said was to cut the stamping out of the panel. Cutting this away relieves the strees in the panel where the recess was stamped. If you just put a filler plate in a stamped hole the metal wants to naturally sink in in this area. Cut away the stamped area and put a flush patch in. That is the way we do it with no warpage.
Exclusive
+1y
Just be sure not to use water or a damp cloth on hot metal. Rapid cooling will cause the metal to work harden.