what i was told about shavin doors

lol i cooled my doors with air and my tailgate with water and they both warped and shrunk all to hell. just take ur time on the tacks and it will better than any cooling method

also you want to make sure you sill up the back of the plate so moisture in there

i never warp the body when im shavin handles, i do like 2 tacks at a time, and i let the air cool them down, takes a while, but saves me time in body work

Edited: 8/23/2005 8:16:20 PM by rollinjunk

the only way i've ever seen it done without warping, or at least so little i could'nt, tell was done using a tig welder.

I have found that cuttin the handle opening out so there is no rolled edge(just open hole) and make a filler that has tiny gap between it and hole to allow the metal to move without warping. take ur time weld till solid skippin around and coolin each spot once it sits a min. take ur time grinding as well to keep warpin to a minumal. I have found that this way is best cause u dont have to worry about seeing a shadow or anything once ur done and the metal changes temp

if u dont want it to warp dont weld it & use 3M metal bondin adhesive..... no warpping no weldin

^^^ seen that crack fast plz weld

its hard not to warp doors..every1 i know with shaved handles has warped their doors..dont rapidly cool by means of water or compressed air even...your best bet is to use a dry rag and absorb the heat instead of trying to cool it down..

Learn to hammer weld then... or Take your time, tack it slow, use a star patern , and grind it slow and in intervels aswell, grinder can warp a door like a bitch just as fast as a welder....

Originally posted by draggin720



if u dont want it to warp dont weld it & use 3M metal bondin adhesive..... no warpping no weldin

when are ppl gonna learn that you cant do that .....its meant for bonding panels that are unseen..or that are not painted over...it will show a ghost line EVERYTIME once painted