nook, zombie, other builder guys?(strokin)

alright, so i'm leaning towards the stroker light kit from lc. i dont really want to buy the block so i can just get mine bored here. but what kind of things need to be considered when doing this. the pistons are .080 over. I'm determined this will be a driven vehicle maybe to shows and long distances, cruise town and such. will heating be an issue? the block will be powdercoated, will that worsen the heating problem?
I'd kinda like some professinal assistance before i drop a ridiculous amount of money. heres what i'm planning:

stock injection(already have)
lc header(already have)
highflow cat and magnaflow(already have)
k&N(already have)
12lb flywheel
stock 5speed/ short shifter(already have)
2.6 stroker light kit
big bore throttle body
lc street cam

how will that be for what i'm looking for?

my block has been bored .06 over with an upgraded cam along with a dougthorley header, race cat, 2-1/4" tube all the way to the magnaflow muffler and it doesnt have any problems running hot...hell since i removed the radiator thing for the a/c it runs cooler than before i had the motor work done. i thought the max you could take those blocks is .06 over.... ?

i have a 22r though, not sure how it applies to the 22re... anyways, its a slight comparrison to what your doing.

22r and 22re are the same block 85-95(excluding turbos).

what kind of power are you looking to make?

Your parts selection looks like a good choice, other than the 12# flywheel, but your working on a 2wd truck compared to the deal I did, I built a stroker motor for a fellow for use in a 4x4 truck and have to say was very impressed with the results. The reason I wonder on the light flywheel is they seem to let the engine rev higher and have less off line ommph than a heavier flywheel does, and my experience with the stroker was it wasn't a real high rev engine, it made strong torque from off idle to about 3500 rpm then flattened out.
The combo I put together was a late model 22R lazer block bored 80 over (94mm) big valve 22R head, LC stage 2 cam, 10.1 forged flat top pistons with valve reliefs, had the LC pro rods, fully balanced, dual chain conversion kit, HP oil pump, TriY header with 2.5" exhaust with stock style muffler, an Offy "C" series intake with a 390 cfm Holley 4bbl carb. and recurved ignition, side note!! premium fuel only with the compression it had if thats an issue for ya.
The engine ran great, could putt around town even in summer with the AC running with no hint of overheating. Fuel mileage, WELL!!!!! on a good day 14, average 12/13, but also had 32" tires and 4.88 gearing.
Spendy is a definate for the parts, the block needs some minor clearancing inside for crank throw clearance, other than that its assemble as normal but make sure to check, double check, and check again for valve to piston clearanance, crank clearance, ect. so you only have to build it once.
Have fun strokin, I'd rather be blown

Lmao.

I agree with Nook on the parts you have chosen. One thing that would be cheap hp would be to have the head and intake ported and polished. It's a lot of work but, you will not regret it at all. Also maybe steping up a bit on the fuel delivery and spark wouldn't hurt either.

I'm ready to start putting my engine back together soon and I can't wait to see what the difference is going to be with the new intake, carb, port job and clutch. I know it won't be a power house by any means but it should be a significant change from the factory 85hp.

i am planning a port and polish, but probably not that much compression. probably do an msd box or maybe the self contained distributer system lc sells. not sure on that tho. thanks for the input.

just for you my little project B&M blown 22r bored .030,crane cam and spring ,holley carb 350 cfm , headers

your setup will be fine