nook, zombie, other builder guys?(strokin)

just for you my little project B&M blown 22r bored .030,crane cam and spring ,holley carb 350 cfm , headers [/quote]

Its looking good, have you had a chance to drive it any? What other internal mods did you do to the engine?
So far I,ve been happy with the setup on mine, have logged nearly 4000 miles with no problems

wow it's the second supercharge I have seen very nice.
I just did keep it simple for now when i sent the block out it's was a&e piston and balance for the head i did not put to much money on it because i am thinking about getting a 20r head .
So far I did start it and it run fine but I did not drive it yet and I had that in a older toyota 4x4 many years ago i was 18 at that time heheh.
I try to fire it up the other day and now I dont have any spark coming out so I am thinking about upgrading all my ignition but i dont know what exactly to order it's been along time i had that sitting around.
I am thinking about getting a electric fuel pump too.

I dont know how it will run in a 2 wheel drive toy yet
because i am bagging my truck right now so i am very anxious

I just did keep it simple for now when i sent the block out it's was a&e piston and balance for the head i did not put to much money on it because i am thinking about getting a 20r head .
So far I did start it and it run fine but I did not drive it yet and I had that in a older toyota 4x4 many years ago i was 18 at that time heheh.
I try to fire it up the other day and now I dont have any spark coming out so I am thinking about upgrading all my ignition but i dont know what exactly to order it's been along time i had that sitting around.
I am thinking about getting a electric fuel pump too.

I dont know how it will run in a 2 wheel drive toy yet
because i am bagging my truck right now so i am very anxious[/quote]


Once you get it on the road you'll have fun. The swap to the 20R head I might question, but its your truck so don't mind me.
Just for what its worth, the 20R head uses a different intake manifold than the 22R, close but still different. The 20R head has smaller valves and the combustion chamber shape actually raises the compression up about a half point when swapped to the early 22R block, not a great thing when supercharged.
The ignition upgrade is well worth the work, that was one of the first things I had to do when I got mine running, the stock ignition worked , but at idle the engine would load up terribly, at higher revs it would just get lazy. Basically with the pressurized cylinders the flame was just to weak to fire the fuel mix, went to a full mechanical Mallory distributor, coil, setup and cured the problems.
I built mine rather conservative on the boost pressure, 6#, but concentrated more on building the rest to be dependable. Started with an 88 22R block, bored .020 over, forged blower pistons 7.5-1, balanced, dual timing chain setup, hiperf oil pump, big valve 22R head, Shnieder cam, header, Holley 500 cfm carb, full ARP head studs and bolts, windage tray,dual oil filter setup with cooler, and a custom 3 row H/E radiator pretty much rounds out the under hood fixins. Good luck with yours.

Nook, I need to bump up my ignition. There are so many different choices on what to use. I've been a fan of Jacobs and Mallory for years. MSD stuff never really impressed me.
What do you suggest? Can the ignitor be totally ditched or does it still have to ride piggyback with the coil?

When setting the timing on the 22r, i noticed that there arent any degree marks on it....(its a stock dist.) i hear the timing is supposed to be around 4-7 degrees but how do you tell without any marks? right now my dist. is pushed all the way to the lock..it runs and idles fine, but i dont really know if thats the best it could be. i was having issues with it and had the timing retarted a little bit which caused it to lay down a bit, but after the issue was figured out, i turned the timing back to the lock like it was before.

Are you asking about degree marrks on the distributor? I have never seen any on the distributor. I've alwayss used a timing light and loosen the hold down nut a little and take the vacuum advance off.

Are you taking the vacuum advance hose off when your timing it? If not thats why it seems to always go back to the original setting.

When it comes to aftermarket distributors, theres not a whole lot of choices, actually the stock distributor is an OK unit for normal use. theres some reworked stock units such as L C Engineering sells, I have seen some reference to using Chevrolet HEI units adapted to the Toy, don't know any specifics about them though, heard of I believe DUI or possibly DEI ignitions for the Toys, again no info on them. As for aftermarket distributor, the Mallory is a nice unit, the one I use is the full mechanical advance unilite electronic, it uses a photo optic module so its virtually maintenance free, plus with the mechanical advance it has no vacuum and can be adjusted to whatever advance curve you desire.
With the Mallory unit I,m running you remove the stock igniter assembly and use the Mallory coil just like an old points style ignition, coil, distributor, ballast resistor, thats about it.
When using an aftermarket ignition box like the MSD or others I believe you still use the stock igniter assembly, the box just controls the spark duration, but don't for sure on that as I,ve never messed with the boxes, Seth I believe is running an MSD box on his, he should be able to clarify that.

The timing marks for setting the timing are located on the timing cover and the front crank pulley, they vary some depending on the years, but the crank pulley (harmonic balancer for those who care) the one that spins has a single mark, just a notch that looks like it was done with a file, the timing cover has a tab with marks for 0 degree, 5, 8, and sometimes 12, with a timing light and turning the distributor you line up the crank notch to the tab mark for the number you want, if you wanted 4 you'll just have to guess, or if you wanted 10 again you just have to guesstimate the distance between 8 and 12 to get it close unless you have a advance style timing light that gives you degrees on its readout.
On the later EFI engines you have to use a jumper wire inserted in the correct pins on the diagnostic plug to bypass the computer to set the timing, once done and jumper removed the computer takes over and adjusts the timing to keep it in its brain range. If your distributor is twisted to lock and the timing can't be set correctly, it could be the distributor is a tooth off when installed.

so wich one from mallory are you using

Hey Northerntoy, the distributor I,m running is the Mallory Unilite,


Every once in awhile, if lucky they come across Ebay, also they made a dual point unit, which was cheaper than the unilite, if you can get one of those fairly reasonable they can be converted to the unilite real easy.