Control arms for rangers

I have byc arms they dont fit that well though, they took about an hour to get on. From what mike said they needed to be shimmed on the back where the adj. is but they sure as hell dont fit like that. I have the truck fully laid out on stock tires so 20's will be no problem. The camber on the front looks about like yours but I plan to raise the top arms 2 inches. What are you running for a 4-link?

Couldbelower what size tires are u running?

the original jig was made off a set of DJM lowers. the new one is totally off a set of stock lowers.

so the fit is much better. the uppers are now adjustable also. adjusted all the way in, they are the same length as stock and can be adjusted out about an inch.

this will allow them to be used on trucks with stock frames as well as ones that have been Zd or have had the upper mounts raised.



www.builtbybyc.com

Its a good Idea to buy these from BYC..I am sure you will get your product in a timely manner! hahahah

So mike dose that mean that I can get a new set because I am not totally confident that mine are that safe to be driving on everyday?

my camber is awful on my truck...i have djm lowers with stock uppers and all stock mounts and it dosent lay entiurely out in the front with the 20s because the uppers are totally verticle...the byc arms that are posted above look great but they really serve no purpose..the stocks or djms will do the same thing. i am looking to just swap my front suspension with a toyota because it seems that the ford suspensions just arent lowrider friendly for lack of a better word. i have a cantilever 2 link out back right now with a panhard but when i stock floor it i am going to put a long arm 4 link ...i also have a fuel cell now so there is plenty of room. i am running 255/35/20s but i am considering some 22's

also just so everyone knows chassis tech makes control arms for these year rangers/ mazdas that are very similar to mikes but once again dont really help the camber and serve no purpose.

they are just tubular arms and the uppers are adjustable. i dont actually know anyone who has run them but i have seen them on a few trucks at shows. i am also not to pleased with chassis tech but i know a few people that have there arms on s10s and seem pretty happy with them...

let me know how it goes lo99maz

Well I have byc lowers and djm uppers and my truck lays hard in the front, I have replaced all the crossmembers under the truck and made a new driveshaft tunnel and the frame lays in the back also. I have a superlift 4-link from ssd, and put a gas tank from a standard-cad ranger in the bed so it would fit. I have been running big red valves and 1/2 stainless braided lines that work great, just last night I hooked up a nitrogen tank all I have to say now is compressors suck! Do you have a camber kit for your top control arms? I dont understand why the front of your truck wouldn't lay!

yours should be fine. take some pics and let me see what the buhsings look like on the truck.

I have the Explorer lower jig in the build process now. I try and do jigs and odd stuff on the weekend.

I really dont want to ride around and hope that my front suspension "should be fine", I have poured my heart and soul and money into my truck and I am not willing to compromise on something that dosent really work for me! You told me that the two shims that you sent for each side should go on either side of the rear mount where the arm adj. in and out, but the arm fits so tight to the outside front and rear there is no room for the shims.

it dosent lay all the way out because the upper arms are totally maxed out,,they are sitting 100 % verticle. there is no where for the spindle to go..not only that but the lowers are close to hiting and i have cut a lot out already. i am running 2600s and i have removed all stock crossmembers and made new ones. it will lay on 19s but not on the 20s. not only that but i still havent moved my main wiring harness that comes trought the firewall so that hits when i am not even Layed out.