The Uni-body Drop has Started (New Pics pg 16)

lookin good Dan!

you need to make the pivot bar in your cantilever setup triangulated so that it acts like a control arm, keeping the wheel from rocking back and forth in the wheel well....

i'm having a hard time picturing it triangulated. the car has a lower trailling arm that keeps it from swaying inwards & outwards. I just figured i'ld make the pivot point sturdy as hell & gusset the shit out of it. if you don't mind could you go into more detail with this idea

THATS WHATS UP THE REAL DEAL FUCK A BODYKIT THE NEON LOOKS REAL GOOD, REAL FRESH LAYIN BODY!

my front bumper is a body kit. Its made by kaminari. The side skirts & back bumper is stock. I'm like you though, i hate body kits & its bad enough neons look ugly from the factory & all the kits they make for them look like shit. My opinion, this is the best looking front bumper they offer for 2000+ neons

heres just a few more pics.............I've been welding together the cantilever since late last night. I got the bag plates welded on now, just need to clean up the welds so its got a smooth look. I bought a 100' extension cord so i can drag the welder out around the car so i can finish up all the sheet metal work. Thats what i plan on doing this afternoon.

I cant wait to see it layd out gonna be sic.......But i would go with what they said and do a traingulated lower arm setup and eliminate the need for a strut bar.

Edited: 1/1/2007 8:06:11 AM by aftershock

Originally posted by CrucialNeon



i'm having a hard time picturing it triangulated. the car has a lower trailling arm that keeps it from swaying inwards & outwards. I just figured i'ld make the pivot point sturdy as hell & gusset the shit out of it. if you don't mind could you go into more detail with this idea

i think cris "da king shit draggerzz" means to triangulate your upper bars. meaning on your "pivot" for your cantilever, rather than using a single pivot, use 2 pivots, like you would a control arm, then extend those out to the bag. This way, the upper part of the strut is supported in both "X" and "Y" planes because right now, it's just supported in one plane, which is the direction of your cantilever, and the only thing keeping the upper part of the strut located is the resistance of the bushings, and some resistance from your lower trailing arms. You have a Moment there, and would just be a lot more stable if it's supported.

edit: it's like saying you're going to run control arms on your truck, but instead of 2 actual control arms, you only run the control arm on the lowers, but just a single bar on top. similar concept. triangulate the uppers!

yea, you turned the strut into a spindle with that bar with the 4 holes in it, so now it needs control arms to locate it.....

Edited: 1/1/2007 8:18:19 AM by aftershock

^ yea that sums it up.

the old setup had the upper bolted to a fixed point, which is the car. now it's a moving support, and should be supported in both directions to be stable. i think your lowers will be fine since they held the car before you did all this, all you did is change the upper mounting, but that's up to you to decide because we obviously can't see the exact way those trailing arms are mounted.