pics please 98 style ranger front bags

NOW THATS A BOLD COMMENT THER GEORGE --- WHATEVER --- I ALSO DAILY DROVE MINE FOR ABOUT TWO YEARS WITH MY ABOVE MENTIONED SUSPENSION AND IT DROVE GREAT -HELL I STILL DRIVE THE THING TO SHOWS -- SOME MANY HOURS AWAY --- WITH NO PROBLEMS --- CANT SAY THAT FOR YOURS CONSIDERING YOU SOLD IT NOT LONG AFTER COMPLETION ---- AND IF YOU CAN SAY YOU WHERE ABLE TO RIDE IT LOW WITH NO TIRE WEAR DO TO THESE ARMS -- CUSTOM ARMS OR NOT IF IT EVEN CAMBERS A LITTLE BIT YOU WILL HAVE TIRE WEAR -- SO THERFORE YOUR ABOVE COMMENT IS A LIE UNLESS YOU CAN HONESTYLY SO THAT YOU HAD PERFECT CAMBER WHILE RIDING LOW JUST BECAUSE OF THESE ARMS --- ( YEAH WRIGHT) -- AND IF YOU HIGHLY RECOMMEND GETTING A M2 FRONT AND ITS "THE ONLY WAY TO GO " THEN WHY DIDNT YOU GO THAT ROUTE ---

cause i didnt have the money to and i didnt wanna dump it into a four thousand dollar truck

i had it aligned at zero camber and i drove at that psi all the time, my tires wore from droppin lower but i didnt chew em up instantly like i did when it was on stock arms

Edited: 12/8/2006 2:01:19 PM by rangerlover

I lay on stock arms with 18's drive it at atleast once a week and have the same tires for 2 years.WITH NO CAMBER DJM is for a static drop and just fucks things up more with airbags.

your profile says you raised your uppers flipped joints raised rack and extended upper arms an inch, thats far from stock. Im talkin direct bolt on, your best bet is djm's ofr a off the bat help

ball joints aren't flipped but the other stuff is true but they are still stock arms slightly moded lol

Mustang II suspension isn't all that great for adjustability.

Hey rangerlover do you have any pics of your raised rack and control arms? You wheels look like they hardly camber, I use to drive my ranger as a daily and now i dont because i have no sway bar and it cambers so bad.

Hey still2low4urho all i did was cut the springs in the front. That picture doesn't really do it justice. There is an assload of camber you just can't see it very well. Oh and to everybody else...Your input has been really great and the arguing has been hilarious. I'm kind of guessing that nobody has any pictures. I'm a girl I need to see how to do it. But you all have helped me alot.

I love when guys argue about this crap too, makes me chuckle since none of them present all of the facts when arguing their points or giving advice. No offense guys, but you guys running factory arms, don't mention how much you had to modify them, or how you had to raise the upper arms to get rid of the camber.

I don't know what this talk is about not having to notch for tie rods. In the pic below you can see how far up mine is notched. It needs to be clearance a little farther back into the frame because it's still rubbing the boot even with it cut up that much, lol.



If your a new kid on the block, and are not completely sure of yourself when it comes to fabrication, then I suggest going with DJM's. I'm running DJM uppers and lowers with moog balljoints all around. I still get pretty bad camber but that will change soon enough.

Let's go over what you guys with stock arms had to do in order to lay them out. I'm not positive on this stuff so just let me know what's different so she can decide if she thinks she's capable of taking on the task.

Probably had to cut the upper ball joint plate and reposition it so that it wouldn't be at such of an angle.

Have to cut sections out of the lower control arm and replate in order to clear the frame.

In order to get rid of the camber, raise the upper control arms up and out, and raise the steering.