My driveshaft puls out, why?

Originally posted by Cruz Lo



Sorry to sound that way. Just how it comes off when you read the question. But if you can't design a suspension then the best bet is to work with what does. such as a factory designed set up.

That's what I hear anyway. I just read the posts in the hopes that I can some day build my own truck.

LOL thats good stuff right there. Hopefully you get your shit right the first time with the build up on your truck and don't have any questions if/when somethin goes wrong.

lol its all good.

Originally posted by Cruz Lo



Because your suspension sucks! Go back to the stock setup or read the posts by Bio MAX!!!!!



Well shit, I guess i am in the wrong forum. I though this was the place to come to ask questions about this kind of shit. I was wrong, it is a place for smart asses with nothing better to do than talk shit on other people like some kind of keyboard commando. Let's see some pictures of your designs because you are probably one of the greatest fabricators in the world, or atleast that is what you think.Now back to the topic at hand, thanks guys for all the input, I will try a few different things that you guys talked about.

Okay, my first question would be how much total "plunge" does the driveshaft have? Second, is there enough driveshaft yoke to accomodate that amount of plunge? My guess is no. Your suspension doesn't have any major issues except the fact that the bars would be parallel, to the ground, at what looks to be full lift. This means that the rearend is moving back through almost the entire travel. You will probably need to lengthen the lower 4-link tabs on the rearend housing and raise the upper tabs on the frame to make the bars parallel to the ground at half travel. If you don't you will end up with oversteer issues as well as driveshaft issues.

When you had the wishbone turned around, the pinion went south because the instant center was behind the rearend. You would need to raise the wishbone way up to make the geometry right. There isn't really enough room to properly set up a wishbone under the bed of a truck, you would be better off with a triangulated 4-link.

I don't know if you have read the 4-link sticky yet, if you haven't, you need to. It's long, but it answers most of the common mistakes. If it doesn't make sense, keep reading it untill it does, or ask your own question.

You want to make sure that when it is down all the way, the drive shaft is in as far as it will go, if you start out with it half way out with the truck layed out, it is going to pull back and fall out! I would definatley lift up the front of those upper bars as well, maybe drop down the back of the lower bars, depending on your ride height, like Max said

Thanks Bio and Toy, I did not know there was a sticky on this, I will def. take a look at it. I think my first mistake was setting up my rear end at layed out height when i should have done it at ride height.

im deffently no expert but i think you should set thr lower bars parrel to the ground at ride hight wich would be the distance from your rocker to the ground when your rolling down the highway. then your uppers should angle down some were between 3 to 4 degrees you need to set your pinion angle at ride hight to

As always, alot of good input guys. Much appreciated. I cut all my bracket off last night and tonight I am gonna start all over again.

What do you guyz think of the changes I have made...

Keep an eye on the instant center of your bars. If you don't run the wishbone high at the rearend, you won't be able to keep the instant center pointing foward. The driveshaft will keep you from being able to run the foward pivot as low as you should, so you will be forced to run really tall tabs on the rear end housing. Like I stated before, the wishbone is a tough one to fit under the bed of a truck and still have correct geometry.