My driveshaft puls out, why?

I thought the title said, "my driveshaft puts out, why?"

Originally posted by BioMax



Keep an eye on the instant center of your bars. If you don't run the wishbone high at the rearend, you won't be able to keep the instant center pointing foward. The driveshaft will keep you from being able to run the foward pivot as low as you should, so you will be forced to run really tall tabs on the rear end housing. Like I stated before, the wishbone is a tough one to fit under the bed of a truck and still have correct geometry.

Hell, it is even harder to put it under an SUV.

Here are a few pics of how I have changed it. All pics are at ride height...This first one is of the trans angle looking at it from the pass side. It is pointing down 5 degrees.This one is rearend pointing up 3 degrees. Looking at it from pass side also.This is another of the trans angle.This is a driverside view of the driveline.This is how far my shaft is out at ride height.This is my rearend angle from driverside at ride heght.My lower bar almost exactly parallel at ride height, maybe a degree higher in the rear. Is this good or bad?One more of my rear end angle looking from pass side.

That angle is very tollerable, in fact it is not even a compromise. As long as your bars are close to parallel to the ground at half travel you will be fine. And it looks to me, that your pinion angle is good too.

It's nice to see people that are willing to spend the time to set up their truck right, even if it means taking 2 steps back.

I just wanted to make sure, it looked a little funny to me, but you are the expert. All the info is much appreciated bro. It is nice to be able to have a place to go and ask these questions.

Here are a couple more pics, there are of it at ride height, not full lift, only bout 5 inches off the ground...

Originally posted by 974door



The way i have it now, the wheels will be centered in the wheel wells when layed out.

Theres your problem right there. When you centered the wheel, you moved the axle toward the back. Now the arc the 4 link it following is moving the axle further back, pulling the driveshaft out of the tranny. Lengthen your driveshaft a little, problem solved.

not to jack the thread i just saw the thing about everyone is lately welding to cast ,, well just mig wont cut it you cant hardwire it no matter how much pre-heating or whatever one may think is right even if it looks good,,, from what i have seen and heard of welding steel to cast you should use "ni-rod" spell check ,, i dont alot about it,but i have heard from many knowledgeable people thats what to use.

I hate to point it out now, but I think you should (if there is room) try to move the upper bar mounts up on the rear end if you can. Your instant center is pointing rearward and it would be a shame to do all this and still end up with a major compromise. Even if you had to eliminate the wishbone and just run the bars parallel with a panhard or something. There is many other things that I would compromise before the i.c. including floor space.

Other than that it looks really good.

Edited: 3/15/2007 7:24:35 PM by iLLblazer

It looks like he might have enough space to shorten the drive shaft cross member. Maybe shortening that 1-2" and using a little taller of a tab on the axle would make the difference.

The welded joints on the bends in the driveshaft crossmember...why not just do it with 1 bent piece? If you HAVE to have joints in it, its a good idea to put a smaller piece of tube on the inside and plug weld it as well, then make sure you V out or leave a bit of a gap on your 2 outer pieces of tube to make sure your weld penetrates good. I had to do that on my driveshaft crossmember because the multiple bends. The way its set up now you're relying on a butt weld by the looks of things.