My driveshaft puls out, why?

:koolaid:

Originally posted by iLLblazer



Edited: 3/15/2007 7:24:35 PM by iLLblazer

It looks like he might have enough space to shorten the drive shaft cross member. Maybe shortening that 1-2" and using a little taller of a tab on the axle would make the difference.

The welded joints on the bends in the driveshaft crossmember...why not just do it with 1 bent piece? If you HAVE to have joints in it, its a good idea to put a smaller piece of tube on the inside and plug weld it as well, then make sure you V out or leave a bit of a gap on your 2 outer pieces of tube to make sure your weld penetrates good. I had to do that on my driveshaft crossmember because the multiple bends. The way its set up now you're relying on a butt weld by the looks of things.

Yeah, either way would get the job done.

I agree about the bends too. There is a lot of force on that upper crossmember. You should brace it up somehow if you didn't already have plans to.

werd, the upper needs to change, its sloping in the wrong direction. and youll def need to run some kind of support for the crossmember, from the hoop backward to the frame would be good.

Originally posted by BioMax



Originally posted by iLLblazer



Edited: 3/15/2007 7:24:35 PM by iLLblazer

It looks like he might have enough space to shorten the drive shaft cross member. Maybe shortening that 1-2" and using a little taller of a tab on the axle would make the difference.

The welded joints on the bends in the driveshaft crossmember...why not just do it with 1 bent piece? If you HAVE to have joints in it, its a good idea to put a smaller piece of tube on the inside and plug weld it as well, then make sure you V out or leave a bit of a gap on your 2 outer pieces of tube to make sure your weld penetrates good. I had to do that on my driveshaft crossmember because the multiple bends. The way its set up now you're relying on a butt weld by the looks of things.

Yeah, either way would get the job done.

I agree about the bends too. There is a lot of force on that upper crossmember. You should brace it up somehow if you didn't already have plans to.

Once again, lots of good info. As for the driveshaft hoop, it is now scrap metal. I was 1 1/2" short on it so my driveshaft hit it. As for the welded 90's, I am a pipefitter my trade, so I thought it would be kinda cool to try. I am gonna turn my wishbone around and run it the other way so I can bring my I.C. back where it needs to be. Thanks once again for all the good input.

Just my opinion, but why did you weld your notch like that? Just doesn't look very strong!

Originally posted by greenwithenvy



Just my opinion, but why did you weld your notch like that? Just doesn't look very strong!



huh?

Max, I think he means he should have done 2 45* cuts. Would give more surface area to weld to.

Okay, well judging by the square lower link bars, one would have to assume that the bags are going to be mounted to the lower bars. Sence the bags will be in front of the notch, the notch won't be loaded much and should be able to hold up to quite a bit of stress, assuming he isn't going to be towing a 36' enclosed tongue-pull trailer...

Originally posted by BioMax



Okay, well judging by the square lower link bars, one would have to assume that the bags are going to be mounted to the lower bars. Sence the bags will be in front of the notch, the notch won't be loaded much and should be able to hold up to quite a bit of stress, assuming he isn't going to be towing a 36' enclosed tongue-pull trailer...

That is why you are the man, I was also thinking of taking some diamond plate that I have and do some corner pieces where the two come together, one for strengh, and also for looks(even though you won't be able to see it under and s.u.v. I know it is there).

A little overkill is always a good idea.