wow..i acctually worked on my truck...pics..with problem

thanks.. that is pretty awesome that a few posts on the web and we were able to get it fixed...... just think if ida grabbed the right damn spindle.. n seth i got a pretty good size hammer for your carb??

Originally posted by SoDakminis



what about up 3/4 and in 3/4.. thats laid out with maxed ball joint..and i will still have a bit of adjustability.....

Like I said, I can't give you an exact number. You're going to have to play with it. But rather than move the mounts in more on the frame I would probably adjust those threaded bushings in farther because they are pretty far out on the threads. And a general rule of thumb, you want twice the diameter of the threads engaged in the female threads.

Originally posted by SoDakminis



thanks.. that is pretty awesome that a few posts on the web and we were able to get it fixed...... just think if ida grabbed the right damn spindle.. n seth i got a pretty good size hammer for your carb??

As soon as I find an EFI truck for the swap I will video tape it being demolished. All 3 of the ones I have.

Are those drop spindles? Because if not I would get them instead of moving the arm pivots. Moving only 1 pivot point will play hell on the geometry of the frontend. Maybe another option would be a set of those bolt in uniball joints that barelylegal sells would work. Just my thoughts. Later

ive never seen a drop spindle for these....
but i think ima move it 3/4 up and 3/4 in and it will be perfect...minus instant center?? which i dont really know what that is..

and seth for your question earlier.. yes it is in the same location as stock.. i wonder if kyle meant for it to have this much neg camber...i sure dont want it..damn wish he would just respond to me...oh well...

I would prefer you left them where they were stock, and just angled the ball joint. But I can't even say if they are in the right spot now. Because if you start moving things around it will start throwing everything off. You will change the instant center of your suspension, which is where the imaginary point of your upper and lower control arms intersect. Much like the rear instant center.

Second, the main pivots in your suspension need to be aligned. Your UCA, steering, and LCA pivots, like in this diagram.

I can get better diagrams if that doesn't make sense, thats just all I could find on my computer.

Originally posted by SoDakminis



and seth for your question earlier.. yes it is in the same location as stock.. i wonder if kyle meant for it to have this much neg camber...i sure dont want it..damn wish he would just respond to me...oh well...

In that case, I would leave them there exactly. Change the balljoint angle, find another balljoint that will work with more travel, or get the bolt in ones from BLF.

Originally posted by TwistedMinis



Originally posted by SoDakminis



and seth for your question earlier.. yes it is in the same location as stock.. i wonder if kyle meant for it to have this much neg camber...i sure dont want it..damn wish he would just respond to me...oh well...

In that case, I would leave them there exactly. Change the balljoint angle, find another balljoint that will work with more travel, or get the bolt in ones from BLF.



WERD

we can make you a set of bolt in Uni-Joints that will bolt up to your factory or aftermarkt arms, and get you alot more travel than a stock balljoint.

holler at me if you want more info

989-671-3729

Taylor

think i will give either the unis a shot or c if i cant get a bit of pitch out of that ball joint by shimming it a bit..but i feel rezzy doin that.. waitn on a price for the unis!!