flipping tie rods

So, in a nut shell, the rack won't travel as far as the suspension does?

Can you take a picture of the rack where its mounted on the frame? I can't grasp why it would toe out when the suspension is compressed. Its just not clicking in my head.

Also I would think about making that heim mount double shear if possible.

I don't really know how a rack works, never taken one apart or worked on one. But would it be possible to put a heim or universal steering joint on the rack itself to get enough travel? Never seen one without the boots on. Not sure if that would work or not.

Edited: 1/26/2008 9:06:48 PM by stkflrd 73

in a nut shell that is exactly my problem well even bigger is that i have a toe issue

my wheels have to be straight when layd and obviously straight when lifted

ive never had one apart either the rack mounts very low and is really close to the oil pan maybe an inch or so ...guess i can see about taking that boot off and go from there .. man i hope to get over this hump that is now a mountain grrrrr

ill put up more pics also

Yeah pull the boot off maybe. I don't know what it looks like under there. Max probably knows more about racks then I do, so he may have already worked out a solution.

Edited: 1/26/2008 11:11:11 PM by stkflrd 73

k i over looked everything and my positive toe is coming from my negitive camber

the more niegitive camber i get the more the mounting position of the tie rod end (hiem) moves closer the engine therefor pointing my wheel out

sound right>?

so if thats the case will drop spindles cure this ? and if not how else can i achieve less camber and still be able to get an allighnment

Drop spindles will probably reduce your camber. But I have heard about people getting positive camber at full lift. But they don't seem to have much camber laid out, so it might be possible to find a happy medium for your truck.

You might want to call the guys at Choppin' Block, or Draggers Inc. The Fresno guys. They do a lot of fullsizes on big wheels and don't seem to have issues. I don't really know shit about fullsize trucks.

i think i will do that for sure ....

i wonder if i shorten my lower arm and bring in the mounting tabs would that keep the wheel straighter threw the motion ...

just an idea whatcha think

look at the angle of the tie rods from the front of the truck compared to the angle of the control arms, they should be the same angle at drive height. You will probably have to move the rack up slightly since the big wheels you're running require your suspension to travel up so far. get it right at drive height and it will be what it is when its laid out or locked up, to drive right it needs to be set up at drive height. I know easier said than done but I think you're staring at it too hard dude

when toe changes as height changes, it means the tie rod isn't following the same arc as the lca, equal to bump steer... the problem is that the rack hasn't moved the same distance as the tie rod ends on the spindles...

ok i understand that my rack isnt following my lca but i cant get the movement out of my rack that i need my control arms (suspension) are swinging up farther so if i can find this cure maybe i solved my problem ....

im wondering if drop spindles alone with a stock rack and stock tie rods will let my suspension move enough....

I'm sorry, but I think that you are overlooking the original statement that the steering needs to follow the diagram that Seth posted. If it doesn't or you have ignored it, you will have all of the problems that you are explaining. Reguardless of the rack, if it has heims or anything else that you are thinking, it needs to follow the diagram!