Hydro Set Up

So I've played with air and I understand the concept and the parts required. But I was wondering what is needed for a hydro set up? I know theres pumps, fills, dump, accumulators, cylinders etc. I guess I was wondering is there a site that might be able to give me a full diagram of how you would set up a hydro system.

Also this might be stupid, but how does the pump work? I can see how it would send pressure to a cylinder, but how does it draw it back? If you open a valve but both the line and pump are at the same pressure how does the fluid get drawn back...

Any info would be greatly appreciated. Just trying to wrap my head around the whole idea. Not sure why I'm not getting it... its probobly the most basic answer, but I figured I should ask....

So... overall, can someone explain a hydro system from start to finish or provide a link that does.

Thanks

Edited: 10/22/2008 10:51:27 PM by 3rdCoastS10

http://www.layitlow.com/ this site seems to have a decent amount of info...the system works on the batteries energizing the pump (when you hit the switch) forcing (or pumping) hydro fluid into the cylinder(s) when you electrify the dump valve the weight of the car/truck forces the fluid back into the tank on the pump....through the open valve.

Switches (hit up) trigger the solenoids(s) which activate the DC motor on the pump (which were designed from old Chrysler starter motors).

The pump inside the tank reservoir has a pumphead which are basically two gears that are turning from the motor forces the fluid up and out which are held in by the check valves. Usually a pump for the front and pump for the rear, yet you can do tricky things with dumps to give you assorted moves with fewer dumps.

Switches (hit down) open the dumps (like air solenoids) that divert the fluid back through the adjustible slow-down valve back into the pump.

Accumulators have nitrogen filled air bladders that allow the energy from a bump to be absorbed since oil does not compress (and air does).

Be careful with the information from layitlow.com as that site is designed for hopper lowrider and excessive batteries and high pressure dumps which are really not needed with our "style" of vehicles.

Heres another question. I knoq hydros require a few batteries, but is that just to boost the voltage up to hop? Could I run lets say to batteries in parallel so I remain at 12 volts but just have more juice and still have a hyrdro system work? Like would it just slow it down or would it not work at all?

I guess my major problem was that I thought the pump actually 'sucked' back the fluid on a dump, not that the car weight drew it back in. I just thought that there would be to much pressure in the tank for the weight of a car to lower it.

What alterations would we need on our 'style' of vehicles compaired to a low rider for say? Obviously accumulators for the ride quality, but what about those slow down valves?

Get this book. It's the best book I've seen on hydraulics.

http://www.highgravity-productions.com/BOOK

I have been wondering if it was possible to set up a reliable 12V hydro set up for a while now. It seems it would be perfect because you could use the stock alternator to charge the batteries. I figure it will be about as fast as a 3/8 air setup. Does anyone have any tips on setting up a 12V system?

In my experience 12V is a little too slow and not really enough power to get it to lift without some struggle. I run 2 batteries (24) which is nice because it only needs 1 solenoid per pump. They last me about 2-3 weeks before a recharge which I do at night while I'm sleeping. You can run in paralell. The orange bd expedition you've prob seen runs 6 batteries, yet in paralell of 3 per pump.

Weight from the vehicle is was returns the fluid back into the pump and the slow down controls the dumping speed or otherwise you'd get a dump the speed of gravity.

Lastly to address your question above. Lowrider guys usually run 4-6 batteries plus when you only need 2-3, they run stiff coils, and those guys run sometimes 3-4 pumps when you can do everything with 1-2 pumps. They are about hopping the most inches...and do whatever it takes to get more. I think we're more about laying out, riding nice and doing whatever it takes for reliability and looks.

Originally posted by AON-OFFDAHOOK



In my experience 12V is a little too slow and not really enough power to get it to lift without some struggle. I run 2 batteries (24) which is nice because it only needs 1 solenoid per pump. They last me about 2-3 weeks before a recharge which I do at night while I'm sleeping. You can run in paralell. The orange bd expedition you've prob seen runs 6 batteries, yet in paralell of 3 per pump.



Since the rest of my car runs on 12V how can I hook up 24V to hydros and still have 12V for the normal functions of the car? Do I add 2 more batteries just for the hydros or do I have to install some sort of controller to the normal functions of the car to allow for the additional voltage.

I think that might be my last major question on this topic...

The reason I ask this is because to fix my front struts to run air will cost about the same amount as buying a pump, 2 cylinders, and all the plumbing pieces. So I was considering going hydros in the front, bags rear and then eventually switching the rear over to hydros too... I like my bags, but if the bag issue will cost the same to switch, why not switch and sell some of the air stuff off.

Adam, Hydraulics are a stand alone system and have nothing to do with your factory battery.

That makes sence then... I'm going to look into this more and maybe start to switch over the air to hydros for the spring. The car has been pretty much useless anyways, the valves keep freezing shut. I do realize that a bagged car in a Northern Canada environment is bound to have issues, but I thought I'd give it a try.