engine driven compressors..good or bad?

i think imma try an replace the check valve an c wat happens...i already went on the website u recommeded an called the dude so i can order the part.....hope this solves it... im so tired of messin wit dis truck ready to burn it dwn....lol   

Does it have an unloader type pressure switch on it like a square D?  I made all my brackets about 3 months ago, square d pressure switch, smc check valve, grainger oil/water seperator, and it runs at least 2 times a day.   Oh, did you pull the 5/16 threaded bolt out the side of the compressor and put a vent on the crankcase?  That'll help keep the oil you have in it.  Also pour the oil out that is in it and run straight SAE 30 weight non-detergent.  12oz, or fill a beer can and pour that in.  It might leak some out the vent, but that's ok, better than burning it up. Here's a pic of the suction, outlet, and vent line.   

dont no wat an unloader loader type pressure switch is...or a square D.....i dont have a side breather like that but i might jus run one...  

n e body no where i can get a good oil/water seperator that can handle the heat and pressure of being bolted under my hood

Way layed has good ones.

yeah, 200 sounds a little high if you're getting used ones. If you are using new ones, there is a break-in period that needs to be done as well. Check out kilby enterprises. On board air setups stem from grassroots 4wd stuff and these guys have been doing it for years. Making sure the right amount of oil is in the compressor is vital to its lifespan. The cool thing about kilby's stuff is that they have a lot of documentation and diagrams for this stuff too.

---------------------------------------------Originally posted by Marcos_65Way layed has good ones.--------------------------------------------- The ones we carry have a poly carbonate bowl....they wont hold up to the heat of an EDC...EDC's put out some crazy heat

Ive only see one EDC go bad in my life, and it was ran without a check valve, thats why it went bad. I run a regular pressure switch, and i also run my oil from the filter back into the EDC. Ive had mine for two years, and have never had a problem. I only checked the oil one time, and i run 200 PSI. I run 30 weight oil and mine came from the junk yard. What size lines are you running of of it. Could be trying to hard to feed the tank??? Im running all 1/2, check valve filter fittings etc.. Ill never run an electric compressor again.

you guys are making me scared to put on my edc. haha so where do i pouroil into it? and thats the first time i have seen someone ad a crank case filter? do i need one of those? and how do i check the oil on it?

Grainger sells the water/oil seperators. 

If you don't have the vent on the side the compressor is going to suck oil around the rings and pump it downstream.  You'll run out of oil, and burn it up quick.  It's the same as the breather on an engine valve cover.  Plug it, it'll burn oil.

The square D pressure switch mounts after the check valve and the unloader line T's in before the check valve.  When the compressor pumps up and turns off the unloader dumps the air pressure off the head so when it turns back on it doesn't have to overcome 200psi immediatelly.  I got the pressure switch from grainger also. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pressure-switches/switches/electrical/ecatalog/N-8gnZ1z0mqhrZ1z0mleoZ1z0r564Z1z11l1fZ1z0n4e9?Ns=List+Price%7C1&op=search&sst=subset http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4ZL23?Pid=search Make sure you have at least 3 feet of air hose before the coalescing filter to give it some space to cool off.