77 CC squarebody sfbd build thread..it rolls and runs

great looking progress man.

whyd you decide to do a 60 series tire?? so u dont have to cut rear fenders??? so u dont have to run a REALLY tal notch?? some other reasoning?? i like that you solder and shrink everything. it takes all the weak leaks out of a wiring system as well as problems looking for a place to happen. also cleans up the looks sooo much .... more progress

also is there a reason why you decided to run a two link with a panhard or watts link?? instead of a four link or two link with a wishbone?? is it just ease of simplicity?? are u worried about driveline angle with the rear solid mounted to the two links? sorry i am asking a million questions. just trying to get this thread back up and cooking with discussion

i ran a 2-link / panhard because i don't have the money for a 4 link with a watts..... its all about the benjamins baby...lol

im not worried about the driveline/pinion angles with the 2 link im using. (not yet...lol) i made the link bars pretty long (the longer the better)

the truck will be set up to ride low to the ground . i am not going to be playing around with the height all the time... mainly just put it at ride height (4-5 inches off the ground) and leave it until i park and lay it out...

if i had the money... i would have never even thought about putting 16's back on the truck after i bagged it and body dropped it.. but considering i have no job or the money. i have to do what i have to do to be able to drive it again....lmao... i will worry about the 22" semi wheels after i get the basic needs of the truck taken care off first...

update:::

i welded the top bag mounts/ spiderweb gussets to the c-notch. my friends dad gave me a couple pieces of 2 inch steel pipe to make the c-notch bridge...
*if i was to run 22" semi wheels. the top airbag plate would have to be moved up 2 1/2 inches. (level with the top of the c-notch)...* so until i get semi wheels. this is where the bag plate will be at...

actually doing my truck this way( setting it up for 22" semi's , and running 16's) i wont have to do anything but raise rear top bag plates 2.5 inches.

most guys start out running 16's being bagged. then they have to redo the rear c-notch again when they switch to 22's... im cutting that part out...lol

thats smart thinking, i bought my truck bagged and bodyed on 16 ( bag job was half ass, the tradianal body drop was done well though)

now i just bought 22 and am having to re do everything from scratch i would have been better off buying a stock truck but i am over it

this is why i bought a lowered one so i wouldnt have to redo/fix a hack job to get it on 22s...i knew what i wanted so i bought an uncut one and went to town....almost made it to town before the money run out lol but i went to Turkey Rod Run in Daytona last weekend and now im ready to do work again

it shouldnt be to hard to put a hinge between the axle and the two link and add two more bars later on should the driveline give you trouble you might even get away with mounting the second set using the rearspringperches (like a Z )

Seems like you'd be ahead of the game if you would do the work only once. Set it up w/the 22's in mind & use a 2" spacer @ one end of the bags. Then once the 22's are possible, there's no need to re-fabricate the mounts.... simply remove the 2" spacers & your done.

looking killer sparky