77 CC squarebody sfbd build thread..it rolls and runs

maibe a Y with a simple pipe in pipe sliding system from the rear part of the frame to the bellhousing of the diff
you can use all the bits you have allready you just need one more rubber bushing and a bracket on the diff
it should be able to get up down and twist movements and resist left to right movements , i think i seen someone make a system like that before on here not sute if it worked though but it should keep everything in the middle all through the travel
the only downside is that it takes up a lot of the space behind the rearaxle

Your truck had 3" leafs huh?? That's awesome for the way you did your setup. For some reason my truck only has 2 or 2.5" springs. Could be why they broke to shit.
You might just have to break down and build a new link. With the parts you already have, a couple more bushings, and a bit more steel stock you could build a triangular setup. To save yourself some cash on an extra bushing you could just build a wishbone upper. Just a thought. I'm ready to see this thing on the road.

Just remember the old motto, do it right or do it again. Cutting corners usually costs more in the long run. Heck you can build a watts link for under a hundred bucks.

yep krewzlo. i have to learn the hard way...lol.

im am going to build a watts link for the rear in the future. i already have some of the parts . in the meantime. im just going to weld up the link bars to the rear end. it should stop just about all the movement from side to side...


ive been doing some work on the beast...

finished bagging the front end. (mainly drilling 8 holes for the upper bag plates and running the airlines.
changed the oil and filter. im going to change the trans filter and fluid tomorrow.
the brake lines/fuel lines, and the rear tailing harness has been secured on the side of the frame.

i will have to say. i am impressed with these paddle valves. considering my air compressor only goes up to 125spi. and i am usining 1/4" airline...

it takes about 6-7 seconds to get the rear up. takes 60 pounds to max the rear out.
the front takes a little longer to raise up. 10-12 seconds to reach 120psi

im going to buy another 2 paddle valve setup to run the rear. i like them. they are cheap and they work.

i got the rear end bagged and the shocks mounted up..





this is where it sets when its aired up. im sure if i had a compressor that would go up to 150 or more. it would go up a little more in the front. but not much.. (one of these days i will mount the front bumper. it keeps falling off when the wind blows..lol)



i got clearance! and the truck is holding itself up off the ground! its a damn miracle



everything is all tight except for the top control arm bolts.. oh, and i need to buy me some cotter pins for the whole front end...



here is a pic of the paddle valve setup....... and my pimp airtank




i set the gas tank in the bed and ran all new 3/8ths fuel line . ( dont worry. im going to paint everything before i get done...)



i found out really quick that the truck will not lay out in the rear because the wheel wells are not tall enough...soooo i had to do some cutting. im not done yet. i need to cut out the sheet metal on the inside of the fender to get clearance for the outter wheel...








also.. im on the lookout for a piece of flat plate steel to go on the top of the c-notch.

as soon i can get the rear to lay out all the way . i will post the pics... ..


ive also been kicking around the idea of welding more 2x4 steel tubing inside the rest of the frame .all the way back to the c-notch and then onto the rear end of the frame.... then i was going to cut off what is hanging past the 2x4.. i would pretty much have semi fully custom boxed in frame. just built off the original frame instead of a frame table...

Damn sparky you've been a busy guy. That's some damn good progress.

I've been thinking about running 2x4 all the way back myself or at least boxing whats not got rec tube in it. Let me know what you end up doing.

Also a buddy of mine gave me a manifold valve setup. I think it an air ride technology piece but it has 4 valves per manifold. Their little though. I think their 1/8 or 1/4 valves. I'm only going to use 1 set of 4 for my out valves. If you want the other manifold block just hit me up and ill send it your way.

Progress looks sweet. I see inspiration when I look at what everyone else is doing!! Looking forward to the day I get to hack (I mean) cut into mine!!

Where'd you get your paddle valves from?? They look pretty sweet!

thanks bagged..

im not sure what i want to do about the frame yet.. but it is a very good idea to box the frame all the way to the back...it will take out that bad flex that all these trucks have. ive never like the way the cab and the bed flex in opposite directions when you drive over uneven terrain.. i thought something was broke the first time i seen it happen driving across a field . (when it was stock... 7 YEARS AGO..lmao)

if you want to send me the air manifold, and you are not going to use it. i would appreciate it a whole bunch... i can use it on the rear. and it saves me 80.00
all i need to buy is a couple switches....
thank you, thank you....

If you put two more end links on the bottom bars then you could use a wishbone set up on top. Thats how i'm gonna set up my rear on my '91 i don't see how you could get any lateral movement with a wishbone two link set up like that.

Sparky,

How long does it take to air up in the front/rear with those paddle valves? What about laid out? I'm seriously contemplating using those but want some feedback from those that actually have em!