NEED REAR END HELP BAD

Then they will say they will charge me. If I refuse they probably will say they won't fix it... LoL. I think I'll just go up there and pull the axles in their lot and then show them what the idiot did...

1.) get some beer
2.)drink a few(varies by weight)
3.)Get the truck up and do it all again
4.)Get a good shim and rebuild kit (from a gear shop)
5.)Tires,brakes, rear cover, pull axles out
6.)Look at the axles if you can run your finger over the part of the axle where the seal sits and the bearing ride and i feels like a teenager face(with acne) i am going to recommend you get new axles.
7.)This is where a lot of people will disagree with me but i would take the carrier and everything out. completely degrease it.For two reasons one you probaly started this project cause of some form of road noise or it locked up, and normal wear creates metal shavings i don't ever want to do the same job twice that sucks and i don't make money.
8.) Drink another beer
9.)Take out the pinon input out(once again some may say don't do this)this will require you rent or buy a inch lb.rachet. Change the bearings inner and outer and seal. Put it back to gether tighten up the pinon nut to manufactor specs. THE WAY I DO IT ISTIGHTEN UNTIL IT HAS A LITTLE DRAG TO IT THEN CHECK IT WITH THE INCH POUND WRENCH.*******IF YOU GO TO FAR YOU CANNOT RE CRUSH THE SLEEVE*****BECAREFUL
10.)The hard shit is done drink two beers the rest is easy
11.) Reassemble after axles are in before adding gear oil the kit you bought froma good gear shop will come with paint and a brush, paint four teeth front and back
11.)Rotate until the teeth with the paint are meshing with the pinion gear and then grab one of the ring gears holding bolt, juke it back in forth about five times
12.) then turn it so you can look at the teeth you painted
13,) what you want to see is the teeth painted have a mark were the paint was moved be the teeth on the pinion,it should clean a spot in the center of the teeth on the front. on the back i usually let it roll with the pattern being a little toward the outside.
14.) If your pattern is good put the cover on lube it up and do a big smokey burn out cause if it is going to fuck up you want it to do it now not later.if your pattern is way off pm me and take a picture.
Hope this helps if not bring it to the gear shop or drive train shop.

Mazda's don't have differential covers like chevy's and ford's...

My manual never called for removing the pumpkin to do the axles...

I don't understand. I did'nt mess with the pumpkin and the pumpkin is'nt what I was working on... I never touched anything of the pumpkin.

I dunno why I would need a rebuild kit either?

The shims were fine. Not broken, warped, anything...

As for the axles being hard to turn, what can I do? Did I mesh in the teeth wrong or something?

If the axle bearings were not put on right, could this affect how the axle turns? Cause if I pull the axles and rotate the hub and its hard to turn, I'm going to assume they were done wrong...

I called a Napa and he says I may have meshed the teeth into the diff. off a couple teeth or so. He says it has to go in perfectly?

MAN! I'm so stressed out... This is day 3!

Now as far as the noise, I took my tires off and I put it in 1st when it was jacked up. I did'nt hear the noise. I also had the tires on as well and did'nt hear the noise...

EDIT: BTW, I did this because my outer seals were bad and leaking into the drum brakes. Causing me to have bad breaking at the rear. AND, don't you think that if my axles were bad, Alton's would have called me and told me that they won't work on the axles because they were bad?

Sorry i was being to general.
Damn i miss understood what a fhen waste of writing i thought you took it all down.
With the axles in and drums off, does the axles rotate good?

ok i figured out what was wrong with mine, when we changed the bearings there was a little spacer that came off with the bearing that wasen't put back on, the spacer goes one before the bearing does, so check your old bearings and see if the spacer is still on the old ones, once i got those spacers back on it was good as new,

Dude if this shop is any good they should fix thier mistake and if they don't bounce one of those shafts off the side of thier heads. These sops thatscrewup should be acountable for thier screw ups. I had to replace a guys to bottom 4 link bars because he broke them, I figuerd that I would do that and keep him happy and for that he sent me 4 more jobs and is still sending me work.

The spacer goes on after the outer seal, right? If so it should in your terms be between the outer seal and bearings then the lock washer and retaining collar, right?

Well, Altons did my bearings. So they got rid of the old bearings and did all the bearing and seal work.

A couple things I've realized now! I took out the axles once again and noticed something. The axles can go in all the way except one. BUT!

Now that I look and now remember, the retaining collar was positioned further back on the axle shaft. It was basically flush with the threads. It is'nt this way now!

I hink that since they were forced in their by my brother, they were too tight. Hence why it was so hard to turn it. With an axle out a little bit it still meshes in the diff. and turns easy!

SO! EITHER I would guess I need more shims to shim it out right, OR I get a spacer put on like you say flameds10.

The guy has REALLY screwed this up for me...

I also just called Napa again and asked about the shims. Are the shims the metal pieces that go onto the axle housing where the 4 bolts go to hold the axle in? The guy said they were axle gaskets?

If I can't get a spacer and/or there is no such thing from what people say around here, does anyone know whether or not adding the shims/gaskets to space out the axles so it turns easily but still rotates the shaft would hurt? As in it would'nt mesh enough and cause slipping?

Once I tighten the axle bolts, the axle is super hard to turn. but when they are'nt and it has a little spacing it turns nicely...

Maybe this will rid me of my annoying noise as well... LAST TIME I TRY AND GET MY AXLES DONE....

AND THANK YOU ROCKETALPHA for trying to serve me with some info. I appreciate the effort!

no u can't add shims, thats exactly what i tried, didn't work

Sorry for the late entry on the subject. Have had experience with your problem. If you have it fixed already - great, if not, I can get you the correct info later today (depending on the year of yur truck, there is are specific assembly requirements to allow for "pre-loading" the new bearings (thats where the shims come in).

WELL! I've got some nuetral news guys!

On Monday, I missed work because of Altons! Took them all the way till 3pm to figure what the hell was wrong! I lost a big portion of my check because of them!

I went in like 3-4 times that day to make sure they stayed busy on my axles. I did'nt get in till 9pm that night to Pullman, tired as hell after putting the truck back together! WOW! I'll never go there AGAIN!

Well, the deal was, they had a local junkyard deliver 2 axles for my Mazda. Then they took mine apart to see if something they did was wrong. AND I sure did give them a yelling about my lock rings being all chipped and mushroomed up. IT turns out, that the guy who assembled my axles with the new bearigns and seals put the crush washer on wrong... I dunno how it went, but he #$@@#! it UP!

His mistake cost me $240 and $120 for Altons. They disassembled the junkyard axles to figure out what was wrong and they took the locking rings off them and put them on mine, because I was certainly not a happy camper!

Just goes to show ya, stay away from ALTONS!

And the other part of my news is, I think something IS STILL messed up! I NEED MAD HELP!

Whoever can diagnose a sound problem is MUCH NEEDED!

It is a sound like a whine and rattle. It occurs in all speeds and gets louder as I go faster. As I go faster though, its either I can't hear it because of road noise or it gets to a peak and then gets quieter. At 60mph and whatnot I can't really hear it. But once I put it in N at 60, its LOUD!

It also sounds like it comes from the rear as well!

Took it to Les Schwab to inspect the rear. They just jacked it up and pulled the drums. They said that everything looks "sound". THANKS TO MY PART!

He said if your not in gear and you hear it, than that means its comnig from a rotating part that does'nt have the load from the engine.

Does the driveshaft still rotate when in N but coasting?

I have'nt touched the driveshaft or pumpkin. So there about it that could make a noise in the rear, UNLESS ALTONS still has my axles screwed up!

Sigh... Between this and the exhaust rattle I have, I want to drive this off a CLIFF! HELP! Anyone?

LOL! Sorry its such a long post...