mymmeryloss
+1y
It shouldnt be too loud if you have them mounted right.
Pm me about the setup please. Im interested.
Pm me about the setup please. Im interested.
fdugn545
+1y
Hey man I'd love to buy it from u but I won't have funds for a lil bit so if MML wants it I understand early bird gets the worm and stuff... I'm hoping that the IRS will deem it alright to send me a few bucks here soon! If not um starting my second job tomorrow so hopefully I can get this stuff going!
Thanks for all the replies guys.
Fred
Sent from GS2 on Tapatalk
Hey man I'd love to buy it from u but I won't have funds for a lil bit so if MML wants it I understand early bird gets the worm and stuff... I'm hoping that the IRS will deem it alright to send me a few bucks here soon! If not um starting my second job tomorrow so hopefully I can get this stuff going!
Thanks for all the replies guys.
Fred
Sent from GS2 on Tapatalk
jiffyzx6
+1y
I Found this information and thought it would be very helpful... Not sure who the original author is but found it threw Google on a site called layitlow.com. Hope it helps
How to Build an Air Ride Suspension System
Why do you want an air ride suspension system?
We have found there is about an even split between the desire for better ride quality and the desire for a lower stance. Our street rod customers want a Cadillac ride and our sport truck customers want to drag the ground. We intend to explain how you can have both, within reason. We will begin with the ride quality issues.
What is ride quality?
A good ride quality means different things to different people. Someone who is accustomed to driving a new Lexus or Mercedes will have an entirely different idea of ride quality from the guy who drives a 10 year old pick-up. Technically, we define good ride quality as the ability to minimize the effects of road irregularities to the vehicle passengers. When the vehicle encounters a pothole or bump in the road, it should transverse the obstacle with as little body motion as possible. A simple explanation, but more complicated to actually perform!
How do I get a good ride quality?
To understand how to achieve a good ride quality, it helps to understand exactly what happens within the suspension. When the wheel hits a bump, for example, it must ride up over that bump. Ideally the suspension would absorb this bump with no transfer of motion to the body. In the real world at least some of this motion will be transferred through the spring to the body. How much transfer takes place is affected by several components of the suspension.
The spring, be it coil, leaf, torsion, or air, is what holds the vehicle up and also controls the rate of compliance of the suspension. Springs are typically rated by two specifications, Spring rate and load capacity. Load capacity represents the amount of weight that a spring will support at a given height. Spring rate represents how much weight change it takes to change the spring’s height by 1”. For example, if a spring has a load capacity of 1000lbs and a spring rate of 200 lbs/in, it will take a 200 lb weight change to make the spring gain or lose 1”. The higher the spring rate, the more load change it takes to change spring height. Most traditional spring manufacturers list the spring rate of their springs, not the load capacity. That is why you will find references for 200lb, 450lb, 500lb springs, etc.
The load capacity of a traditional spring can’t change at a given height unless the diameter or wire thickness is physically altered. Airsprings, however, are rated by load capacity at the industry standard of 100psi because changes in air pressure greatly influence both load capacity and spring rate.
The shock absorbers also control the rate of compliance of the suspension. A proper shock must be matched to the vehicle weight, the suspension geometry and the spring used in that suspension. A leafspring, coilspring and an airspring all have very different spring rate patterns and would require different shock valving to optimize ride quality. Too soft a shock may let the suspension bottom out on hard bumps. Too stiff will result in poor a ride over small bumps. Since there are a wide range of vehicle weights, spring types, and customer preferences, adjustable shocks go a long way towards optimizing ride quality for your car.
The tires and suspension bushings also greatly influence ride quality. Most OEM suspensions use large soft rubber bushings and tall tires to enhance ride quality and noise transmission. Some street rodders like to use polyurethane bushings and short sidewall tires. It is especially tough to get a decent ride quality with such a combination.
No, really, how do I get a good ride quality?
Now that you have enough technical information to bore you for awhile, we will talk about real world combinations. The typical OEM vehicle will use a tall sidewall tire, large rubber bushings, a soft spring rate spring and a progressively valved shock absorber. This is all done to optimize ride quality. Some of the higher end vehicle use electronically adjustable shocks to optimize the ride and handling over a wide range of road conditions. Thousands of hours and millions of dollars are spent to optimize each oem application. When that oem combination is changed, all of that research is voided to some extent.
Now think about building your street rod. For most of you the first priority is to use components that will fit or are affordable. While the general guidelines concerning bushing and tires can be followed on any or every car, not everyone will spend the time and money necessary to repeatedly change springs and shocks to get the best ride quality. This is exactly where the air spring suspension shines! Assuming that a feasible airspring is selected for the suspension, it can be tuned to the parameters of the vehicle and the customer by changing air pressure while on the road. Likewise, an adjustable shock can be tuned to individual taste. In theory it is possible to make a vehicle ride as good with traditional springs as with an air suspension.
This would require the aforementioned spring and shock testing. All of this tuning would need to be repeated when there are significant changes made such as fuel load, passenger load, or road surface changes. With an air suspension and an adjustable shock, these changes can be made in a fraction of the time. It is analogous to tuning a carburetor or tuning EFI. The EFI is much more versatile.
The analogy to EFI is relevant in other ways, too. As with anything adjustable, it is possible to adjust yourself into a terrible ride quality. The mistake most people make is too low of air pressure or too soft a shock [or shock adjustment]. This will allow the airspring to collapse too rapidly over a bump. Since an airspring is very progressive [spring rate rises in compression] it feels too firm. Many times adding air or using a firmer shock will actually result in a better ride quality. Symptoms of low air pressure are bouncy ride on rolling bumps and bottoming on potholes.
The best way to start tuning an air suspension is to inflate the airsprings to their design height. Any competent air suspension manufacturer will be able to tell you this dimension. This is where the airspring is designed to work the best. You favorite ride quality should occur within a ½” of that dimension, regardless of the air pressure. After that is accomplished, start playing with the shock adjustment.
What air pressure should I run?
Ahh, a question with many answers! Run whatever air pressure it takes to get the airspring to its design height. A 32 Ford may take 45psi. A 57 Chevy may take 75psi. A new F150 may take 60 psi. Keep in mind that the weight of the vehicle is only one factor in determining how much air pressure is required. A much more important influence is the geometry of the suspension.
The relationship of the load point vs. the pivot point vs. the position of the airspring will be a huge factor in determining the selection of the airspring as well as what air pressure is required. If you are building your air ride suspension from scratch, these are just some of the factors that have to be considered. While you are at it, you must account for ground clearance, driveline angles, and balljoint travel limits. If you have purchased a pre-designed system from a manufacturer, these issues have been addressed [or should have been].
I want to build a custom suspension from scratch…
No Problem! Building a successful air ride suspension is no different that any traditional suspension. It is actually easier.
In a leaf, coil, or torsion suspension you have to some educated guesswork as to where the vehicle ride height will end up and how the ride quality will be. Everyone has their favorite recipe for using coil springs out of a Malibu with 1 coil cut off, or leafs from an S10 with a leaf removed. This will all work to a certain extent, but lets look at why they work and what would make them NOT work well.
Lets say your buddy builds a 48 Ford with a Camaro front subframe and S10 leafsprings in the rear. It rides GREAT! You want to build one the same way. Only yours will be a convertible with a big block. It now sits too low and rides like hell. Now you can start the research all over to find a set of coils and leafs that will be appropriate for your car.
With an air suspension it is a matter of adjusting the air pressure to accommodate the extra weight in the front and the lesser weight in the rear. The added benefit is that when you add 3 friends in the rear of that convertible for cruising, all it takes is an extra squirt of air to re-level the car and restore the ride quality.
I want some real guidelines…
There are a few things to be aware of when building any suspension, especially an air suspension.
* Ride height – The vehicle needs to be mocked up at your intended highway ride height. This highway ride height needs to reflect proper ground clearance [at least 4.5”] and adequate suspension travel [at least 3” compression and 2” in rebound]. After that, start looking for a place to install the airsprings at their intended design height. This is VERY important! If you have an airspring that is intended to ride at 9” tall and you try to make it run at 7” tall, the best ride quality will make the car ride 2” taller than you want. If you deflate that airspring to that 7” height to make the car sit right, the ride quality will suffer. Any competent airspring supplier will be able to give you the compressed, ride height and extended dimensions of their airsprings.
* Ground Clearance – A lot of customers want to “lay the car on the ground” DON’T DO IT! You must have at least an inch or so of ground clearance when the air system is fully deflated. You also need at least 4.5” of ground clearance at ride height to be able to negotiate speed bumps and other road obstacles safely.
* Driveshaft and balljoint travel – Balljoints will only travel so far before they bind. The driveshaft will go only so far into the transmission tunnel before it hits. It is your job to find these limits and take them into account.
* Airspring clearance – The only rule here is that the airspring must never rub on anything at any time. Period.
It requires considerable thought and planning to properly satisfy all of these details. The nice thing about an air suspension is that you can inflate and deflate the vehicle through its full range of travel to check out all of these parameters. A conventional suspension makes it much tougher to accomplish this.
What about the compressor system?
After you have properly designed and installed your air ride suspension, you will need a source of compressed air and a way to control it. While it is possible, at least in theory, to use an inflation valve or even a bottle of compressed air to inflate your suspension, the most efficient method is an on-board compressor with a reservoir tank and a control valve. It is with the compressor system that you can upgrade, customize, economize or thoroughly overkill without drastic compromise.
Any stand alone air suspension really needs an on-board compressor and control system. Here is why: Ride quality tuning is done in very small air pressure increments. Because the airsprings are quite small in volume, it is very hard to inflate or deflate in small enough increments to zero in on a great ride quality. In addition to that, when you add load in the form of fuel, people or luggage you have to go looking for an airhose! You can quickly see how convenient an on-board system can be.
The sky is the limit on compressor systems. The main difference here is rise time and convenience. The faster you want to vehicle to come up the more compressors, more pressure and more reservoir tanks you will need. A typical street rodder who is not concerned with rise time will probably use a single compressor with a 2 gallon tank and a 2 way controller. If you want that car up in 2 seconds it will take a pair of 150psi compressors, a pair of 3 gallon tanks and a 4 way control system. Obviously this extra equipment will cost more money.
Why would I want to have 4 way control?
There are several reasons to control the airsprings independently. Probably the biggest is to eliminate air transfer when cornering. In a “2 way” configuration the airsprings are tee’d together from side to side. When you negotiate a turn to the left, for example, the vehicle will tend to lean to the right and place more load on the right hand suspension. The loaded right hand airspring will then start to transfer air to the unloaded left hand airspring, thereby worsening the problem.
Another issue is the leaning vehicle.
IF everything is equal, meaning weight, frame level, and bushing resistance, then the car will level. In the real world, however, driver weight, gas tank weight, and uneven suspension bushing resistance may combine to create an unlevel car. Then, just as with a coilover, you have to “wedge” the car level with a bit more air pressure on one side or one corner. These are very common problems, especially for top-heavy cars with polyurethane bushings and no swaybars.
A 4 way control system will also offer a faster rise time because it will flow more air. 12-15 seconds may not seem like a long time but if you are sitting there with your finger on the switch it may seem like forever! The RidePro solenoid system, for example, also offers a simpler plug-in installation and a digital gauge option.
As with any serious suspension project, a proper air suspension system requires serious planning and forethought. DO NOT be afraid to ask questions! Ask several different sources …you will soon get a consensus of good information. When you find the right enthusiast that will give you the information that you need, don’t be afraid to reward him with your business. You never know when you may need more information!
Summary…
Advantages of an air suspension
* You can optimize the load capacity and spring rate for nearly any weight vehicle.
* You can RE-OPTIMIZE your suspension when the load changes, such as extra fuel, people, luggage or a trailer.
* You do not have to know what the finished weight of the vehicle will be to select the correct components…you can tune the suspension to the exact finished vehicle weight.
* An air suspension is tunable for different driving styles and ride quality characteristics.
* Your vehicle can be lowered dramatically for parking and fairgrounds cruising, and then restored to highway ride height for a safe, comfortable trip home.
* Because you can compensate for various loads to maintain a consistent ride height, an air suspension can actually offer BETTER tire wear and handling.
Common problems with an air suspension…and how to avoid them.
1. Air leaks – First off, airsprings DO NOT LEAK. Look elsewhere. The leaf will be at a fitting. Spray soapy water on all connections and look for bubbles. Don’t forget about the control panel or digital pressure sending units.
2. Bouncy ride – low air pressure, too soft of shocks, poor shock placement. Increase the air pressure, install a stiffer shock, or find a more effective location for the shock.
3. Harsh ride – This is the one that is most understood. Typically the cause of a harsh ride is too low of air pressure which leads to an airspring height that is too low, which forces the airspring to operate in a range that is not optimum for best ride quality. Every airspring has an intended ride height. Achieving that ride height is the goal…the air pressure required to get there is not important. Poor ride quality can also be caused by damaged or improper shocks, or by too little suspension travel. There really needs to be a minimum of 3” of compression travel [at the wheel] to allow a civilized ride quality.
4. Leaning – Most cars are heavier on one side than the other…especially with a driver. Cars without swaybars and tall, heavy cars such as a sedan delivery are most susceptible to leaning problems. The fix is simply to use a 4 way control system that offers independent control over each airspring. Then you can increase the air pressure to the appropriate airspring to level the car. We have seen some cars require as much as 20psi difference from one side to the other.
How to Build an Air Ride Suspension System
Why do you want an air ride suspension system?
We have found there is about an even split between the desire for better ride quality and the desire for a lower stance. Our street rod customers want a Cadillac ride and our sport truck customers want to drag the ground. We intend to explain how you can have both, within reason. We will begin with the ride quality issues.
What is ride quality?
A good ride quality means different things to different people. Someone who is accustomed to driving a new Lexus or Mercedes will have an entirely different idea of ride quality from the guy who drives a 10 year old pick-up. Technically, we define good ride quality as the ability to minimize the effects of road irregularities to the vehicle passengers. When the vehicle encounters a pothole or bump in the road, it should transverse the obstacle with as little body motion as possible. A simple explanation, but more complicated to actually perform!
How do I get a good ride quality?
To understand how to achieve a good ride quality, it helps to understand exactly what happens within the suspension. When the wheel hits a bump, for example, it must ride up over that bump. Ideally the suspension would absorb this bump with no transfer of motion to the body. In the real world at least some of this motion will be transferred through the spring to the body. How much transfer takes place is affected by several components of the suspension.
The spring, be it coil, leaf, torsion, or air, is what holds the vehicle up and also controls the rate of compliance of the suspension. Springs are typically rated by two specifications, Spring rate and load capacity. Load capacity represents the amount of weight that a spring will support at a given height. Spring rate represents how much weight change it takes to change the spring’s height by 1”. For example, if a spring has a load capacity of 1000lbs and a spring rate of 200 lbs/in, it will take a 200 lb weight change to make the spring gain or lose 1”. The higher the spring rate, the more load change it takes to change spring height. Most traditional spring manufacturers list the spring rate of their springs, not the load capacity. That is why you will find references for 200lb, 450lb, 500lb springs, etc.
The load capacity of a traditional spring can’t change at a given height unless the diameter or wire thickness is physically altered. Airsprings, however, are rated by load capacity at the industry standard of 100psi because changes in air pressure greatly influence both load capacity and spring rate.
The shock absorbers also control the rate of compliance of the suspension. A proper shock must be matched to the vehicle weight, the suspension geometry and the spring used in that suspension. A leafspring, coilspring and an airspring all have very different spring rate patterns and would require different shock valving to optimize ride quality. Too soft a shock may let the suspension bottom out on hard bumps. Too stiff will result in poor a ride over small bumps. Since there are a wide range of vehicle weights, spring types, and customer preferences, adjustable shocks go a long way towards optimizing ride quality for your car.
The tires and suspension bushings also greatly influence ride quality. Most OEM suspensions use large soft rubber bushings and tall tires to enhance ride quality and noise transmission. Some street rodders like to use polyurethane bushings and short sidewall tires. It is especially tough to get a decent ride quality with such a combination.
No, really, how do I get a good ride quality?
Now that you have enough technical information to bore you for awhile, we will talk about real world combinations. The typical OEM vehicle will use a tall sidewall tire, large rubber bushings, a soft spring rate spring and a progressively valved shock absorber. This is all done to optimize ride quality. Some of the higher end vehicle use electronically adjustable shocks to optimize the ride and handling over a wide range of road conditions. Thousands of hours and millions of dollars are spent to optimize each oem application. When that oem combination is changed, all of that research is voided to some extent.
Now think about building your street rod. For most of you the first priority is to use components that will fit or are affordable. While the general guidelines concerning bushing and tires can be followed on any or every car, not everyone will spend the time and money necessary to repeatedly change springs and shocks to get the best ride quality. This is exactly where the air spring suspension shines! Assuming that a feasible airspring is selected for the suspension, it can be tuned to the parameters of the vehicle and the customer by changing air pressure while on the road. Likewise, an adjustable shock can be tuned to individual taste. In theory it is possible to make a vehicle ride as good with traditional springs as with an air suspension.
This would require the aforementioned spring and shock testing. All of this tuning would need to be repeated when there are significant changes made such as fuel load, passenger load, or road surface changes. With an air suspension and an adjustable shock, these changes can be made in a fraction of the time. It is analogous to tuning a carburetor or tuning EFI. The EFI is much more versatile.
The analogy to EFI is relevant in other ways, too. As with anything adjustable, it is possible to adjust yourself into a terrible ride quality. The mistake most people make is too low of air pressure or too soft a shock [or shock adjustment]. This will allow the airspring to collapse too rapidly over a bump. Since an airspring is very progressive [spring rate rises in compression] it feels too firm. Many times adding air or using a firmer shock will actually result in a better ride quality. Symptoms of low air pressure are bouncy ride on rolling bumps and bottoming on potholes.
The best way to start tuning an air suspension is to inflate the airsprings to their design height. Any competent air suspension manufacturer will be able to tell you this dimension. This is where the airspring is designed to work the best. You favorite ride quality should occur within a ½” of that dimension, regardless of the air pressure. After that is accomplished, start playing with the shock adjustment.
What air pressure should I run?
Ahh, a question with many answers! Run whatever air pressure it takes to get the airspring to its design height. A 32 Ford may take 45psi. A 57 Chevy may take 75psi. A new F150 may take 60 psi. Keep in mind that the weight of the vehicle is only one factor in determining how much air pressure is required. A much more important influence is the geometry of the suspension.
The relationship of the load point vs. the pivot point vs. the position of the airspring will be a huge factor in determining the selection of the airspring as well as what air pressure is required. If you are building your air ride suspension from scratch, these are just some of the factors that have to be considered. While you are at it, you must account for ground clearance, driveline angles, and balljoint travel limits. If you have purchased a pre-designed system from a manufacturer, these issues have been addressed [or should have been].
I want to build a custom suspension from scratch…
No Problem! Building a successful air ride suspension is no different that any traditional suspension. It is actually easier.
In a leaf, coil, or torsion suspension you have to some educated guesswork as to where the vehicle ride height will end up and how the ride quality will be. Everyone has their favorite recipe for using coil springs out of a Malibu with 1 coil cut off, or leafs from an S10 with a leaf removed. This will all work to a certain extent, but lets look at why they work and what would make them NOT work well.
Lets say your buddy builds a 48 Ford with a Camaro front subframe and S10 leafsprings in the rear. It rides GREAT! You want to build one the same way. Only yours will be a convertible with a big block. It now sits too low and rides like hell. Now you can start the research all over to find a set of coils and leafs that will be appropriate for your car.
With an air suspension it is a matter of adjusting the air pressure to accommodate the extra weight in the front and the lesser weight in the rear. The added benefit is that when you add 3 friends in the rear of that convertible for cruising, all it takes is an extra squirt of air to re-level the car and restore the ride quality.
I want some real guidelines…
There are a few things to be aware of when building any suspension, especially an air suspension.
* Ride height – The vehicle needs to be mocked up at your intended highway ride height. This highway ride height needs to reflect proper ground clearance [at least 4.5”] and adequate suspension travel [at least 3” compression and 2” in rebound]. After that, start looking for a place to install the airsprings at their intended design height. This is VERY important! If you have an airspring that is intended to ride at 9” tall and you try to make it run at 7” tall, the best ride quality will make the car ride 2” taller than you want. If you deflate that airspring to that 7” height to make the car sit right, the ride quality will suffer. Any competent airspring supplier will be able to give you the compressed, ride height and extended dimensions of their airsprings.
* Ground Clearance – A lot of customers want to “lay the car on the ground” DON’T DO IT! You must have at least an inch or so of ground clearance when the air system is fully deflated. You also need at least 4.5” of ground clearance at ride height to be able to negotiate speed bumps and other road obstacles safely.
* Driveshaft and balljoint travel – Balljoints will only travel so far before they bind. The driveshaft will go only so far into the transmission tunnel before it hits. It is your job to find these limits and take them into account.
* Airspring clearance – The only rule here is that the airspring must never rub on anything at any time. Period.
It requires considerable thought and planning to properly satisfy all of these details. The nice thing about an air suspension is that you can inflate and deflate the vehicle through its full range of travel to check out all of these parameters. A conventional suspension makes it much tougher to accomplish this.
What about the compressor system?
After you have properly designed and installed your air ride suspension, you will need a source of compressed air and a way to control it. While it is possible, at least in theory, to use an inflation valve or even a bottle of compressed air to inflate your suspension, the most efficient method is an on-board compressor with a reservoir tank and a control valve. It is with the compressor system that you can upgrade, customize, economize or thoroughly overkill without drastic compromise.
Any stand alone air suspension really needs an on-board compressor and control system. Here is why: Ride quality tuning is done in very small air pressure increments. Because the airsprings are quite small in volume, it is very hard to inflate or deflate in small enough increments to zero in on a great ride quality. In addition to that, when you add load in the form of fuel, people or luggage you have to go looking for an airhose! You can quickly see how convenient an on-board system can be.
The sky is the limit on compressor systems. The main difference here is rise time and convenience. The faster you want to vehicle to come up the more compressors, more pressure and more reservoir tanks you will need. A typical street rodder who is not concerned with rise time will probably use a single compressor with a 2 gallon tank and a 2 way controller. If you want that car up in 2 seconds it will take a pair of 150psi compressors, a pair of 3 gallon tanks and a 4 way control system. Obviously this extra equipment will cost more money.
Why would I want to have 4 way control?
There are several reasons to control the airsprings independently. Probably the biggest is to eliminate air transfer when cornering. In a “2 way” configuration the airsprings are tee’d together from side to side. When you negotiate a turn to the left, for example, the vehicle will tend to lean to the right and place more load on the right hand suspension. The loaded right hand airspring will then start to transfer air to the unloaded left hand airspring, thereby worsening the problem.
Another issue is the leaning vehicle.
IF everything is equal, meaning weight, frame level, and bushing resistance, then the car will level. In the real world, however, driver weight, gas tank weight, and uneven suspension bushing resistance may combine to create an unlevel car. Then, just as with a coilover, you have to “wedge” the car level with a bit more air pressure on one side or one corner. These are very common problems, especially for top-heavy cars with polyurethane bushings and no swaybars.
A 4 way control system will also offer a faster rise time because it will flow more air. 12-15 seconds may not seem like a long time but if you are sitting there with your finger on the switch it may seem like forever! The RidePro solenoid system, for example, also offers a simpler plug-in installation and a digital gauge option.
As with any serious suspension project, a proper air suspension system requires serious planning and forethought. DO NOT be afraid to ask questions! Ask several different sources …you will soon get a consensus of good information. When you find the right enthusiast that will give you the information that you need, don’t be afraid to reward him with your business. You never know when you may need more information!
Summary…
Advantages of an air suspension
* You can optimize the load capacity and spring rate for nearly any weight vehicle.
* You can RE-OPTIMIZE your suspension when the load changes, such as extra fuel, people, luggage or a trailer.
* You do not have to know what the finished weight of the vehicle will be to select the correct components…you can tune the suspension to the exact finished vehicle weight.
* An air suspension is tunable for different driving styles and ride quality characteristics.
* Your vehicle can be lowered dramatically for parking and fairgrounds cruising, and then restored to highway ride height for a safe, comfortable trip home.
* Because you can compensate for various loads to maintain a consistent ride height, an air suspension can actually offer BETTER tire wear and handling.
Common problems with an air suspension…and how to avoid them.
1. Air leaks – First off, airsprings DO NOT LEAK. Look elsewhere. The leaf will be at a fitting. Spray soapy water on all connections and look for bubbles. Don’t forget about the control panel or digital pressure sending units.
2. Bouncy ride – low air pressure, too soft of shocks, poor shock placement. Increase the air pressure, install a stiffer shock, or find a more effective location for the shock.
3. Harsh ride – This is the one that is most understood. Typically the cause of a harsh ride is too low of air pressure which leads to an airspring height that is too low, which forces the airspring to operate in a range that is not optimum for best ride quality. Every airspring has an intended ride height. Achieving that ride height is the goal…the air pressure required to get there is not important. Poor ride quality can also be caused by damaged or improper shocks, or by too little suspension travel. There really needs to be a minimum of 3” of compression travel [at the wheel] to allow a civilized ride quality.
4. Leaning – Most cars are heavier on one side than the other…especially with a driver. Cars without swaybars and tall, heavy cars such as a sedan delivery are most susceptible to leaning problems. The fix is simply to use a 4 way control system that offers independent control over each airspring. Then you can increase the air pressure to the appropriate airspring to level the car. We have seen some cars require as much as 20psi difference from one side to the other.
fdugn545
+1y
Okay guys time for another random/and probably stupid) question...
Is it safe to leave air in the bags? Like for instance if I were to have trouble with a valve or compressor, could I "air up" and leave it aired up for say a week till I had the time/money to replace/repair the needed parts? Just wondering
Thanks, Fred
Sent from GS2 on Tapatalk
Is it safe to leave air in the bags? Like for instance if I were to have trouble with a valve or compressor, could I "air up" and leave it aired up for say a week till I had the time/money to replace/repair the needed parts? Just wondering
Thanks, Fred
Sent from GS2 on Tapatalk
kovz
+1y
Yes. I can leave mine aired up for several weeks in the garage during the winter.
Its especially nice if you don't have any air leaks.
Its especially nice if you don't have any air leaks.
fdugn545
+1y
Another question has anyone mounted their tank and valves under the bed? I know most people have theirs in the front of the bed but since I have a blowthrough I don't have room near the front of the bed and I would like to keep a lil bit of room In the bed. Pics would be great (they're an awesome Inspiration!) thanks guys,
Fred
Sent from GS2 on Tapatalk
Fred
Sent from GS2 on Tapatalk
kovz
+1y
Yes of course you can mount everything under the bed. It's a much cleaner look in my opinion. I did similar setups on my B and S10. Valves mounted on outside of frame rails.
fdugn545
+1y
So I'm revamping this thread cause I still have questions... First off does anyone have a two peice driveshaft while being bagged and does it cause problems (carrier bearing Issues, range of travel problems) also how are u guy mounting your exhaust above the frame? Pics would be awesome!
Thanks,
Fred
Sent from Samsung Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2
Thanks,
Fred
Sent from Samsung Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 2
rcogan
+1y
speaking from prior trucks, as long as pinion angle is set properly and axle doesnt come to far forward and bind up carrier bearing then it should be perfectly fine
dont have any pictures, but if you bring truck to any descent muffler shop, they will be able to "tuck" exhaust up higher then frame rails, depanding what muffler you have now, may have to get a smaller, more compact model
also, i just read thru this entire thread again, not sure your progress on buying parts, but i just got a set of manual valves from " target="_blank
theres no wires to run for valves, 3/8" ports, guage fittings built into manifold, rebuildable
also, if you havent bought compressors yet, watch Ekstensive.com, newmatics.com, and metalworx.net
they run 15%-20% sales randomly, and some offer free shipping
dont have any pictures, but if you bring truck to any descent muffler shop, they will be able to "tuck" exhaust up higher then frame rails, depanding what muffler you have now, may have to get a smaller, more compact model
also, i just read thru this entire thread again, not sure your progress on buying parts, but i just got a set of manual valves from " target="_blank
theres no wires to run for valves, 3/8" ports, guage fittings built into manifold, rebuildable
also, if you havent bought compressors yet, watch Ekstensive.com, newmatics.com, and metalworx.net
they run 15%-20% sales randomly, and some offer free shipping