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Mazda Engine General \  any ideas?

any ideas?

Mazda Engine General Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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hocbj23   +1y
There is an idle screw on the carb, on the left as you stand on the passenger side.Hex head screw with Phillips indent.The pop was probably a backfire from running too lean if the carb was screwed up. It died at idle because it wasnt getting enough gas to keep it going. Should be set to idle at about 650-7oo rpm. If you need them I have a recon set of NGK's ,factory wires ,cap and rotor I will send you for postage only. BJ
assdragginsdime   +1y
thanks, i found the idle screw. got it idling at 800rpms like the sticker under the hood says. But the spring that returns the lever to the idle position, is kinda worn i think, its not bringing the throttle down low enough, so im going to hit up the hardware store and try to find a replacemetn.
hocbj23   +1y
Cool. Glad you got it goin again. I have an old factory carb I can probably salvage the spring from if you cant find a better one. BJ
mazdabon2nd   +1y
there is a thing on the front of the carb its an idle release valve and it like a cylinder thing with a lil tip nad u can screw it in or out and it returns the valve at a certin speed so if u look on the front of the carb u will see it and be hind that there is a glass carb in spection plate where u can look in side ur carb lol so hit me bak if this works lol
assdragginsdime   +1y
i really hate my truck... this is rediculous.. Lately, when i start it up, it shuts itself off real quick, And then eventually it starts and stays running.. there were a couple times it started and idled REALLY low.. like 500rpms or less. But normally its at 1200.

once its running, it will drive, But like if i go to stop at a stop sign... as soon as i start slowing down, The motor will shut off. Then i start it back up, and drive, And same shit when i come to the next light/stop sign.. It first started with the problem only when i downshifted to slow down. Id downshift gear to gear, like normal, and when i came to a stop, the truck would shut off.. so i stopped downshifting.. Now it does it just slowing down with the clutch in, and using the brakes.

The brake light on the dash cluster has been on the past few days.. so i dont know what thats about. i dont have an e-brake or anything..

I got it home, and parked it, went to start it back up, and it took forever. kept cranking but not starting. Finally it started, And when i reved it up, i noticed it would backfire, and then drop rpms really fast, as if it stopped firing for a second.. adn then caught back up..

Its almost like its flooding itself somehow. last time i took the carb off, i dumped out a bunch of gas and shit. And its been really sucking down gas for all its worth.

im really fed up with this bullshit, I put the truck up for sale, Its really pissing me off, i need to drive it to work, and its just problem after problem it seems.
assdragginsdime   +1y
its a stock b2000 motor, with all the emissions removed, But it still has the stock carb. Could that be the reason its running so shitty?
assdragginsdime   +1y
nobody has any clues? i pulled off the carb today, and mad gas pourd out.. so i just dumped the shit out. and put the carb right back on. didnt fuck with anything.. jsut put the carb back on.. fired it up, and now its popping like a bitch, every time i hit the gas, the car makes a "pop" sound.. like a backfire, but not really.. you guys really dont understand how angry i am right now.. i seriously considered smashing the truck into a tree.. I cant even drive the fuckin thing to work today now.. im fuckin pissed.. i want to get rid of this piece of shit.
assdragginsdime   +1y
yea heres a video of it, sicne im probly not very good at describing stuff.. It wasnt doing this the other day.. and the timing should be exactly the same as it was before. i havent touched it.. so i dont know what the backfiring is about.. thing was running fine on saturday.

hocbj23   +1y
Its mechanical.If its broke it can be fixed.1.With truck on level ground, take air cleaner off and look on the drivers side of the carb. There is a small glass window with a line etched in it.See where the gas level is with respect to the line. If it is way over the line, your carb float is either defective or set wrong and it is causing the truck to flood.If way under the line, the float is not allowing enough gas thru the metering valve and causing the truck to run lean and pop or backfire and die.Either way, get it adjusted.When you took carb(s) off and on did you put new gasket on? If you used old one it could be leaking air and causing rough idle and poor performance.You said no pollution control equipment is on truck. Did you plug all the vacuum lines to the carb? If not or if one is leaking air into carb,again poor performance.There is a timing mark on crank pulley and several marks on front of engine block used to set time. Get an auto store with a timing lite to check your time. Autozone here does it for free. If off time, two bolts at base of distributor. Loosen and slowly turn until timing marks indicate truck is in time. Hope this helps. BJ
assdragginsdime   +1y
yea, i think im just gonna do a weber or holley 5200 swap. Its the least of my worries right now i guess.. my dad backed into the door and basically folded the door in half. so now i need to take it to the shop to get it fixed, because i dont have time to suicide a new door for it. And im gonan get the rest of the body straightened out while it's there.