help with my 4 link??

Mullet this is going no where... Everyone has to learn at some point, No man knows what he can do until he tries. If everyone was to afraid to try something and learn from their mistakes then no one would be able to do anything to their truck. Thats the only way I really learn. The main point of the forums is to ask questions and get advice maybe you shouldn't try to give advice if you don't completely understand the topic not trying to sound mean.



This makes no sense, You are trying to hinder the credibility of my diagrams because you think I drew them for an s10??? No the diagrams are universal, the picture I posted just happened to be for an s10 4 link, these diagrams are not my opinion its GEOMETRY and here is another similar set up on your friends d50 if you still believe that diagram is only for s10s

hmmmm. bummer mullet? lol.
No worries mullet i won't be baggin your truck anytime soon. and it's not lack of skill, it's lack of experiance with link setups.
everybodies gotta start sumwhere. I don't know all the setups out there and a few well placed questions in forums like this generally get some good results as to what are possibly the best and worst setups. complicated isn't a problem, i have a brain, i have the time to learn anything i don't know, and i have people around me that can help me.
My biggest problem is i needed to know NOT the simplest setup, but the ones NOT to use. and the ones that will work best from the tests and trials people like you and Baha and all you guys have put them through.

OUR sport is about building, sharing, showing and having fun. at least thats what i think it's about. some ppl may have ideas of making money in it after bagging there first truck, but not this guy.
I'm here to get information on sections of the sport that i don't know about. and the help i'm getting from you guys really is invaluable.

you said it all bro!!!

Well.. first off Mikey didn't bag his truck, a shop in Ocala did, and thats a custom made canti kit specifically made for his vehicle. And i'm not knocking you or your skills, i said that from the begining.. i'm saying don't believe everything you read online, because nothing takes place of experience and hands on. I fully understand that someone has to start somewhere, but I did not learn on my vehicle first. I learned by helping club members who did have experience put on their 4 links, start at the bottom and work up. Remember in English class when you couldn't site all online sites for your essays? And how it was strictly forbiden to cite online forums? Think there is a reason for that? Don't get me wrong, I agree with Baha's diagrams 100%.. but how are we the source? You can't believe everything you read online, because you can't value what they say 100%.. there is some credibility involved.. and being a nice guy isn't what i'm talking about. Trust me.. i have been there.. yes i started somewhere too.. but it wasn't on an online forum asking questions as to how to build or mount a 4 link. And i have made my fair share of mistakes, and almost killed myself a couple times in the process.. the reason i'm on the band waggon of having someone else do it.. or to get your feet wet is so you don't make the same mistakes i did. What i have been saying from the start is if you buy a universal kit from SSD, cando, gravity werx or the rest, the upper tabs aren't going to be parallel to the frame.

This is off of a SSM post by Michael White

-------

rear mounted bars dont always have pinion angle change just because they are mounted to the rear, thats stupid to even say thet. the pinion angle change is due to the difference in length of the upper and lower bars, or the placement of them. IF the rear mounted bars are all of the same length and the upper and lower bushings are directly verticle of each other the pinion angle will not change at all. but you will have the opposite driveline plunge as a forward mounted setup. on a forward mounted setup the driveline will go forward as you go above or below the height where the driveshaft and/or the 4 link bars are level.
on a reverse the driveline will be as far forward as it will ever go when its at the middle of its arc. the longer the bars are the less driveshaft plunge you will have.
the reason is that the arc is longer and therefore it takes way more movement to equal the same amount of forward or rearward driveline movement.
the optimal setup on a truck with a stock gas tank in front of the axle is a forward mounted 4 link or even a 3 link with a watts holding the axle in the center. however a triangulated when properly setup is very good as well and will give you very little problems. many peopl who install a triangulated will mount the angled bars too straight and it will allow the axle to move side to side as the bushings flex and give under more pressure than they can handle

--------

this is his rebutle to the other one i pasted from ssm

Don't worry i won't be Citing anything you say for an english report mullet. and i do have the supprt of a mini trucker from WAY back who's been in the sport for about 15 years.
I'm game to learn from the best.

yo alls yall need to chill a little bit thanks everyone for the help but i would like for someone to help me out with the blazer gas tank if anyone knows??

it prolly will be easier for you to just get a standard cab mazda tank bro, it fits back there just like a blazer's do, and it will be direct plug in, just gotta make the mounts

That wasn't what i meant.. jackass

hey mullet i know he was trying to talk to you like your stupid and you were just trying to help him out so dont worry bout it and settle down not joe but i think im gonna go with the blazer gas tank so i wont have a hole in the back where you can see a gas tank and i already bought it