My first post in audio! i have some sub box/amp ??'s

ok- i'd like to build a box to go behind the rear seat of our crew cab superduty to hold one ten inch oz audio Matrix Elite sub(dual 2 ohm 1000W max). i can't find volume specs (the oz audio site is apparently down)
EDIT-i found a site thats a little hard to navagate for me, but appears the ten inch is .8Cube sealed and 1.25 ported
Is there a standard rule of thumb on volume or enclosure type for size of the cab??
obviously i'm not going for major boom, i want a nice, full sounding stereo. just picked up a new pioneer dehP5100UB head unit and the wiring, and scosche plastic thing to cover the double din ford factory hole.

for the amp question... we're putting new oz audio 5x7 coaxial door speakers in the front doors, it'd be best to run them off an amp vs. headunit power, right? how about the rear(stock) speakers? and for the sub?

i've got 3 amps,
~a kicker IX 404 2 x 40W @ 4 ohms (0.085% THD)/2 x 60W @ 2 ohms (0.2% THD)/1 x 120W @ 4 ohms bridged (0.2% THD)

~an alpine3548 60Wx2 @ 4ohms/80Wx2 @ 2ohms/160Wx1 @ 4ohms

~an interfire IB 2900C see below from interfire website/catalog
Model IB-2900C
Number of Channels 2
Max Power 1000W
Peak Power @ 2 Ohm Stereo: 500 x 2
RMS Power @ 4 Ohm Mono: 550 x 1
RMS Power @ 2 Ohm Stereo: 350 x 2
RMS Power @ 4 Ohm Stereo: 225 x 2
Signal to Noise Ratio: 96dB
Damping Factor (4 Ohm): >200
Fuse Rating: 2 x 30 Amp
THD (@ 4 Ohm): 0.03%
Bass Boost (45Hz, Variable)0-18dB variable
Crossover - 250Hz variable

i know how we all like pics, so here's a few:
://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1169/401/2920200185_medium.jpg
://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/1169/401/2920200187_medium.jpg

now that all that is outta the way... what can you recommend for what i've got vs what i wanna run? i'm not interested in buying more crap, except wiring or fuses?

EDIT- after taking the sub outta the box and seeing how DEEP it is and how HUGE that magnet is (think it needs like 6.5" mounting depth) it might not fit behind the seat, but considering i just spent like an hour takin pics, researching the amps, and sub ratings, i'd like some damn answers anyway i'll have to double check the truck space again another day!

thanks in advance!

holy shit check this video out they're oz audio matrix elite subs, like mine but like 12's or 15's.

Cool video. As for the sub issue I can only say good luck. I have a 2008 F350 SuperCrew and I am visually trying to figure out where you could put a cube measuring 10.5" square by 7" long and I just cannot think of any. The space behind the rear seat is just not that big. If the mounting depth was say 4 inches +/- you probably could do it.

As for the amp questions I would (if you have the room) run all three amps. The stock rear speakers will probably be fine with the Kicker Amp, assuming the stock speakers are 4 ohm.

Good luck witht he setup and as always keep us posted.

i'm sure the stock speakers are 4 ohm... they usually are aren't they? and the new oz audio 5x7's are the Vector line, if that means anything to anyone... and they were free so that's a plus. i bet they're probably 4 ohm as well.
i was thinking maybe use the kicker amp for the front door speakers, run the rears off the head unit and bridge the rear channels on the amp for the sub? that's probably not enough power tho lol.
anyway thanks for your good luck wish

You're definitely right about running the rears off the head unit, especially if you don't have space for three amps. To help achieve a proper soundstage, most die-hard audio fanatics don't even run rear speakers. If anything you just need a little moderate volume "fill" in the rear. But if you have the room for a third amp, you could always run the rear speakers off off the lowest powered amp (probably the kicker) to provide a cleaner sound with higher headroom.

For the sub box, you would definitely be better off with a sealed enclosure unless your sub manufacturer strongly recommends a ported one. A sealed enclosure has two benefits for your case: first it provides very accurate bass that isn't extremely boomy and second, it has the smallest recommended enclosure volume. You're going to need to save as much space as possible. The size of the enclosure has everything to do with the design of the sub and nothing to do with outside dimensions like cab size. A sub needs a certain amount of suspension to sound it's best and that's what an enclosure does.

With wattage ratings you ALWAYS look at RMS instead of peak. Peak is really meaningless. It looks like your sub has a 700 watt RMS rating with dual 2 ohm voice coils. Your interfire amp can run stereo 350 watt RMS x 2 at 2 ohms. You will be better off to wire each voice coil to the left/right channel on the amp and run a LPC (low-pass crossover) to eliminate the high frequencies the sub can't play anyways. Be sure to place a HPC (high-pass crossover) on the front/rear speakers to eliminate most of the bass these speakers can't produce.

very good choice in woofers. awesome sq drivers. too much reading for me lol. but yeah they have a deep mounting depth. hard to put behind seats lol. just pull the seats. haha. nice deck as well. thats the newer version of what i run.

thanks for the advise. any suggestion on crossovers(brands to watch out for or stay away from) and where to get em?

unless you wanna run a crossover that doubles as a line driver, your amp has a built in crossover which eliminates the need for an external one.

^^ thanks i thought it did...

ok heres what i think. i know you want to use as much as the stuff you already have. run the alpine amp to the front doors and the rear off of deck power. run the sub amp and since the sub doesnt fit buy 2 thin (not flat) subs and build a sealed box. the amp does 350 rms @ 2ohms stereo. thats plenty of power for a few dual 4ohm subs. maybe like some alpine type-s. when you run the wiring, id run a set of 4channel rcas and sub rcas. that way later on down the road if you wanna swap out the 2channel for a 4channel and amp the rear speakers theres way less wiring to do.