My SFBD B2200 Project (with pics)

...*southernrazed spidy sences are going through the roof*..nope thats just the... haterdar....man 1/8th will be fine with stock motor...

its true that the stock frame isn't too thick, but it's also 6" tall(or whatever)... the taller the frame, the more beam resistance it has. its all fine and good that the frame flexes a little when stock... but a frame that's cut in half vertically, and not any thicker is a bad idea, it will flex more, and when metal flexes it becomes work hardened, which leads to breakage! it won't happen instantly, it will happen over time. personally i'd rather have overkill than underkill.
people keep referring to the hp/torque of the motor being the culpret... yeah a little i guess, but everytime you goin and out of a driveway, hit your switches on a side, or anything else that will have your suspension flexed out will try to twist your frame.
i'm not tryin to hate or anything, and i hope i'm wrong and your frame won't bend or twist or any of those bad things that happen.

that's a nice set o welds. who welded that up and what is it?

this pics from last year, there are allot more gussets bars and tabs now but you can see the idea, add reinforcement wherever possible.. ..and no i diddnt forget my gas...those are 220 stick welds..oldscool

Hey v8mazda4ever I appreciate it man.

make sure your lower gusset isn't going to rub your bag when you air out,

big difference between fluxcore mig welding and TIG welding.

yes, there is.

i started with a gasless welder from harbor freight. so dont think that im being an elitist asshole, i have just learned that there are better ways to do things. the lower bar moved outward looks a lot more stable. sure 1/8th is fine for a salt flat car or a circle track car or whatever, but that thing isnt meant to be driven to work. they also use heims...good luck with that.

im not here to tell you that you cant do anything. thats why we do what we do, because most people wont. if you feel a stick welder is fine, knock yourself out. i personally like the prettier stuff myself. most of my frame work is done with a 110v lincoln, nothing thats out of anyones price range. easily transportable and easy to learn.

theres a few factors to consider here. the welds he took pictures of had HOLES in them. fluxcore creates a porous weld anyway, and if there are visible holes i wonder what they look like inside. he didnt even take the rust off of the rear end before welding to it. i bet you could knock them off with a small sledge. also, he stretched the wheelbase i think 16 inches? the stock frame is something like 3x5 this new one is 3x2...draw it up in solidworks or something and see how its going to flex. im not saying it wont work, i just would have done a few things differently. there are a number of things i do like, such as moving the box closer to the cab, and bringing the frame out from the engine cradle.

southernrazed im glad you broke down and bought a keyboard...those @ signs were about to drive me insane.

i still wanna know who welded that!! <img src="{SMILIES_PATH}/icon_biggrin.gif" alt=":D" title="Very Happy" /><!-- s:D -->

Hey what happened haven't seen much of your build are you taking a break you got me wanting to see more