***SkrapinSask from stock to layin frame***

Hm... I'd say your choices are either pocket the frame for the bag, or mount the bag further out, and get your extra drop by 'Z'ing the frame horns up front?

That is kind of my approach. Get everything in so I'm happy, and get it all level. Then, next winter, when the front is all apart again, do what I need to do to get the front down where I want it (Pretty close already, so I'm not worried)

i think im going to pocket my frame also cuz i got re7s

Angle that part inwards towards the frame more.
Im not sure this pic helps, but its frocashmoney24's truck. Its got re-6s now and has an 1/8" or so clearance when layed out, but when aired up the bag has at least a 1/2" of clearance.

dude i had mine layd hard,and didn't have the frame cuped or z'ed,now i dont remember what bags you said you where useing but from the pics they look about the same size as the ones i used... now you can have it lay and not rub the frame at the same time with out cuping the frame...im not sure where you seeing the prob in your setup....you can have it very close to the frame at full drop the bag only gets smaller around when you air up...again i dont remember what bag you said but i had 2500s and i know you have to cup for 2600s(firestone)

This project is started to come along good man. It'll be nice seein more minis in saskatoon. Dont worry about the welds they look good especially for no experience. As a jman i probably couldnt do much better

you messed up by welding the lower plates on the arm before mocking things up. i have re6's in the front of mine with frame uncut and have plenty of clearance. its all about measure measure measure and put it together and take it apart 35 times like i did. i get great lift but i will be pocketin when i redo it and puttin 7s in. in my opinion if you are pocketin you have to do 7s or you are wasting your time.





-justin

they are RE'6 Bags and i probabaly shouldnt of fully welded the lower arms but the bags plates are as close as they could be to the balljoint. Mabye ill try mocking up the upper bag plate and see how this is looking

thanks for looking

when I did mine I screwed up and put the upper mounts in first, much like how your lowers are getting to you. the angle that your lower brackets are set at is the cause of your headache, that is what is causing the top of your bag to want to be more inboard to the frame than it should be. I revised mine with a second set of lowers and the plate on the a arms sat over the inside ball joint bolts(holes drilled and bolts flush through the plate) and that saved me from notching the frame. It's worth cutting them off and starting from scratch, or spending a few bucks and getting new lower mounts and arms. Its major whoops like this that lead me to walk away from my mazda, but I learned a ton from it and wont make those mistakes again.

yea if you can save your lower brackets, cut them out, re set your angles, and just tack everything in until your happy with it,I would suggest it.... I should have my parts in this week and be playing with my front bags soon, if I come up with anything I'll deff. let you know... best of luck with it, my advice.... don't settle... make what you want to work, work... GL

Alright well i have brackets for my rear lift arms so i will just use those and then reorder new ones for the rear. I plan on cutting the plates off the arms as the arms are still good. The wrecker here is such a scam and would probably want over 60 dollars for new LCA's plus i put a few hours into cleaning them up nice. This project is a big learning process for me so i have to expect some mistakes, thanks for the feedbackI'll be getting back at it today.

My friend whos grandfather was the original owner of the car gave me the original key with dealership keychain
kinda cool