***SkrapinSask from stock to layin frame***

^ Excellent bit of welding advice. Also, for the first pass (blue) you can use a little less heat if you are burning thru. For the second pass (red) you can use a little more heat assuming the blue pass has completely filled in all the gaps / holes. Also on the red pass remember to weave the arc side to side or in a circular motion to get a more even fill vs holding it in one spot and pouring in the wire.

I'n no welder, but the guy who did my notch is, so I'm just regurgitating what he did/told me. He is also an absolute perfectionist... so maybe it's overkill.

He did what was shown in the image 2 posts back. Bevelled all the edges so he had a roughly 3/6" deep 'V' to fill.

He laid the first weld a little cooler as he'd blow through with too much heat since the bevels removed 90* of the material there. For that pass he used a 1/8" 6018 rod. Can't help with amperage (My notches I drew in autocad, and had custom made, so they are 3/16" thick).

His second pass he used 3/16" 7010 rod. again, not sure of the amerage. If you want photos of the notch and the prep before hand, I'm pretty sure we're got at least a handfull of photos I could dig up for you.

The remainder of my truck was/will be done with my MIG which I'm much more proficient with (Again, definitely not a pro).

Prep before the weld should usually be almost as time consuming (or more) than the weld itself. It's all in the prep!

In the end... if you want to know what your welds should not look like, refer to any of the factory welds on your frame


Also just remembered. If you want tips, help, info with regards to your welding, sign up to this forum:

For one, they definitely know their stuff. There is no shortage of super cool builds to browse, and they have one resident minitrucker there who has done some sick builds. Lastly, they are always super eager to help and get a glimpse of your own project they are providing pointers for.

Thanks for the tips guys! My friend stopped in to give me a hand with welding the lower control arms today. I am VERY happy with how they turned out. I still need much more practice before i will have any of my welding on the suspension of this truck and will stick to the body work until i have more practice.














stretching the pockets to the correct width for the front frame rails. I originally purchased the RE6 bags so i would not have to pocket the frame rails but after some mock up i know i can get atleast another inch of drop if the frame rails are pocketed plus my bag will be a much safer distance from the frame. Thanks for looking guys

Lookin good man

Right now i am contimplating notching into the front frame rails. It honestly just does not seem like this is going to work well at all if i dont notch the frame rails. the bag seams to hit the rail way to low and in order to get a bag plate in there i would loose some lay. i would REALLY prefer to not have to notch the the frames. I have several saved pictures of notched rails on mazdas as well as front bag setups with notching the front but cant decide on whats right. Now i am still very new to this so would like a vet to chime in and tell me what they think.


I know this wont solve my problem but should i further notch the red? In this picture the bellow is touching the frame and getting a bag plate in there seams like it would be very short. Also it looks like getting the bag to deflate evenly wouldnt be possible.


yeah i have already started to mark out where the pocket would be but dont want to have to do it.

thanks guy

I wish I could chime in and with some advice on this one, but I don't have my parts in yet, the only thing I can say is Ive seen many front setups with out the front frame rail modded at all, so it can be done.... I'm sending you a PM with a pic that might help ya... might not GL -Ross-

looking good bro

Here is how mine look. Asked around a bit and have been told it's about what I'm after so I think I'm leaving it like this.




If you don't have to pocket, I wouldn't I don't see how you would need to though? Where are you getting clearance issues? You can't just move the back further out towards the ball joint? I know you want it as tight to the frame as you can, but you've got an inch or so either way to play with?

nice welds

Alright well there is NO way i will be able to mount the upper bag brackets without a pocket unless i want to loose over 3" of lay.


this is with the bag fully compressed and about 1/8th inch from touching the frame


the bag is fully compressed here close to the frame at the ride height seen above


this is where i want it to be so i have no choice but to pocket the frame rail

opinions? thanks for looking guys