***SkrapinSask from stock to layin frame***

I will take your advice and finish the loop. I actually started to make the style you had mentioned but got pissed of at having to make 4 angle cuts like that with a cutting disk. A bandsaw would be ideal but that doesnt exist in my garage. Even if everything was tripple pass welded and gusseted on those link bar mounts you would still strongly suggest the full cross member? So with everything mocked up the only issue i am having is that the bushings for the upper bars on the diff are contorting when fully layed out. When testing it popped some tack welds off at full lay. Any suggestions in stopping this from happening other then forking out the 120 canadian + for the super pivot link ends by the time i have them shipped/duty paid. I am wondering if i can get a solid drive line loop made in town or where i could source one from. I am trying to avoiding making another costly order that will set back my build



here is a sample of some of my friends tripple pass welds on the "start" of the 4 link cross member

Thanks for looking and all the help!

yes you need crossmembers in your frame for structural rigidity. you cut one out, you need to replace it.
as for your link binding issue, you are going to have some deflection in your bushings. thats the nature of it because you have two upper bars swinging in different arc angles. they'll move closer and farther apart as they swing, but their opposition is what holds your axle centered.
that's why you set it up at ride height, when there is no stress on anything. all your parts should sit in place without having to shove or hammer anything in place... just sit there relaxed. that way when your axle is all the way up in the frame there will be minimal stress on the joints, and on the opposite end of the suspension travel pendulum, there is also minimal stress. none in the center. if you set it up with the suspension fully maxed out at one end of the pendulum, it'll bind more the farther it goes.

I agree with speedster u need to either buy or make a hoop crossover to connect ur link crossmembers. I am glad to u see moving forward on this instead of giving it all away.
Anything u need as for prefabbed or bent just send us information and I can do it for at a fair price. As a vendor on the site we are here to help guys like u because u are keeping the industry alive. Anytime any question any part you let us know and we will be there to help.
As far as setting ur links why would u want to setup at ride height? If set up right u should have no problems at ride height or layed out. feel free to ask. keep up the process

Sadistic iron werks

Props to you guys with extensive fab experience for helping out those in need.
"As a vendor on the site we are here to help guys like u because u are keeping the industry alive. " Probably a very true statement and definitely something something worth keeping alive. Having extensive experience in building super stiff frames for hydraulic car dancers I would recommend the same as Speedster and Sadistic. Extensive bracing at the frame is fine but does nothing for "connecting" the frame rails to one another. The last thing you would want is a frame with minimal cross bracing.... It would be fine sitting in your driveway or at a car show but in reality it would flex and distort too much while driving. I am genuinely amazed at how stiff the current unibody design can be made without having any real frame at all. Keep up the good work and as always keep us pic whores happy.

I was offering a gentle nudge , lol
Yes dude, ya have to think of these 2 rails moving separately, killer welds are good for a solid pivot point but under torque the frame rails twist around
If ya were closer I' d be able to help more, got a tube bender, fer makin a hoop, who ever is closer, will help at least from here we could avoid the border, lol

I went to my local bearing supply shop and got my heims.

5/8"

I apreciate all of the information because i have never done any of this before and would otherwise never know if it is all proper. Today i wil have to complete the 4 link cross member as well as finishing burning in the rest of the tabs/ bag brackets. If i run into a an issue with going through bushing fast on the diff i will have no choice but to switch to heim joints but for the time being i might as well see how these work since i would have to order the heims. I am hoping to have some more pictures up today

thanks for looking

keep the pics coming

I would have to run a heim exactly like this with a 1 1/8th stud from illusive fabrications


52.99 us so by the time i pay for shipping/duty 400 dollars
but really ill probly just order two when i place my next order shortly