***SkrapinSask from stock to layin frame***

LOL, was just thinking of you when I was posting on eblines build thread. Did you notice how is 4 link crossmember was done. Kinda like was being recommended for you install.

p.s. you MS Paint skills are 2nd to none LOL

when is the most critical point your truck is operating? when would be the most drastically catastrophic point of failure? when sitting layed out in a driveway or speeding down the freeway at 70mph/110kph? i'd personally (and every other fabricator i know) rather have my setup dialed in at the most critical point. its so much less critical if your suspension is in a bit of a bind, or your pinion angle is off a few degrees if your truck is sitting on the ground parked, or sky high going 2mph over a speed bump. you'll put 1000 miles a month on your truck at RIDE HEIGHT. you'll drive to work at RIDE HEIGHT. you'll go to church at RIDE HEIGHT. nobody drives everywhere layed out. it makes no sense to set it up layed out dude.

Is there any specific reason you went from the frame rails to over the diff, rather than building a crossmember and having the bars go out to the axle tubes inside the notch? It would not create so much binding on the poly bushings that way.

Mini update

My hobart 125 is popping breakers like crazy so i will have to up my 15 amp breaker to a 20 amp tomorrow. If you notice the welds are only a few inches long and this is because of the breaker.

I went to get some nozzle dip and wire and came home with a new fully adjustable self darkening hobart helmet.







My good friend helping with measurments and welding


some quick first pass welds burnt into link tabs for testing
planning on zipping them out for tripple passes on each side. The frame
end mount for the link tabs will extend frame rail to frame rail with a loop or notch.



set the bag in place on the bracket, havent fully decided on placement but
the closer it is to the pivot point the more lift right? what would you guys suggest?



fully layed out, lower bar tabs clear the ground by a few inches


The 4 link tab crossmember will continue across with a drive line loop and another member will cross the notch area for shock mounting. I have some very new belltech nitrogen drop shocks from my dakota that i had lowered 3/4 on 20's i would like to try to make work if possible.

Brian I actually didnt know that would solve the binding issue. I have never setup a 4 link before or put anyting on air so im still very new to this all. "Itslikewhoaa" used a program to design my 4 link measurements otherwise i would of been completely lost and this is just how it was designed. I might just toss some heims on the upper links but they arent contorting at anytime only slightly when fully layed out. Please check your email i need to make another order

Thanks for looking! Please comment! Keep in mind this is not completed in any way yet!

quick update!

We tacked in the bag brackets to see what kind of lift we would be getting with this mounting location but wont be burning them in until we have the front suspension completed. The further towards the frame end on the link bars the more lift correct? Are these placed way to close to the axle? comments and questions please

all i got to say is there is no right or wrong way to do place your set up, its all in how you like it....saying that i would put the bags right in the middle of the bars good ride and good lift, where you have then your not going to get as much lift as you can get but still going to get a lot more then over axle

your in a good area for the bag placement. once you get middle or closer you just wasting bag. the chances of you finding a shock to let you use over 14" of travel are slim. unless your shock mounts are a foot above the suspension, or cantilevered. Also remember that if the shock is more than 30 degrees out of square with the axle travel then it is useless.

Also for setting up the bag on bar you will get a good ride at 60-80 psi in the bags, so setup the bags accordingly. Just how I do it I'm sure there is more ways and input from many more people just my $0.02

i had mazda stock 4x4 shocks on mine and got 15" of movement out of them,had it set up where they were layed over when layed out, but up rite at ride hight.....worked great so there is a way...just keep it up you will come to a way you like

Speedster is correct on what is the most critical part for setting up your bags, but something for speedster. What is everyones ride height? Not everyones ride height is the same so how can we use the term ride height as a general term.

i would have to say that RIDE HEIGHT is where the driver rides at most of the time and is where it should be set to be correct,were everything works right and is set right...yes everyone has a different (ride height) be it from 1"to 15"s but it should be were it is set up correct and there is no pressure on the drive line...so seting it at ride height is VERY inportant to how a truck is going to act and drive...just my 2 cents