how to remove flywheel... engine turning..

No, the rear main seal rides on the outside perimeter of the crankshaft's rear flange......





Also, a block sitting on an engine stand with the flywheel removed won't leak oil out of the flywheel bolt holes because the oil level is not that high........but if you sit that same block on the ground and tilt it backwards so the oil level gets up to the open flywheel bolt holes........you'll pour oil out of those 6 holes and make a heck of a mess!
In other words, if you don't put thread sealer OR red loctite on the flywheel bolts, as the factory service manual tells you to do, you'll be seeping oil through those threads, guaranteed!

I always use red loctite and it keeps those bolts from loosening up as well as sealing the threads so the bolts won't seep any oil........been working on every motor I've built for years.

i pulled the flywheel of and seen no signs of oil above the oilpan... the oilpan tho was oily and slick in the right rear corner ... i found what appears to be a split oilpan seal... im gonna thread lock the flywheel and start the motor and see if that helps but i think i may have over tightened the oil pan gasket
://i304.photobucket.com/albums/nn198/lburgbmx19/20130105_214458_zps7436abe1.jpg

curious tho... the leak only occurs when the engine has pressure on it...with the motor just sittin there no oil leaks out... is the oil pan under pressure with the engine runnning? id like to not replace the oil pan gasket if i dont have to...lol

Yeah, when the engine is running it will create a certain amount of blow-by past the rings and therefore pressurize the crankcase. How much blow-by, and therefore crankcase pressure, depends on how good of shape the rings are in........the more worn, the more blow-by.

The PCV valve is supposed to help alleviate those crankcase pressures, but as the engine wears, that pressure increases. So if your oil pan has a leak, then it will more than likely leak worse while the engine is running.......if not from increased pressures, then from the oil being slung around from the crankshaft spinning.

Also.......I never use a oil pan gasket! I use the grey RTV and never have any leaks from the oil pan. I don't believe Mazda used a pan gasket.......all the motors that I have pulled apart had the grey silicone on it.

I make sure the parts are 100% free of oil and then brush on a thin layer of RTV on both surfaces and assemble them. I do this to the windage tray-to-block as well as the oil pan-to-windage tray.

This is a B2600i motor, but it is just to show you how I do it......

Ok ..im gonna replace the gasket tommorw. Do you think ill need to redo the rtv between the windage tray and the block too.its only been built for about a few months.and ive only started it less than a dozen times.. im thinking I can get away with a new gasket.i really think I over torqued it and thats why its leaking. If my oil pan seal is bad or split wouldnt it leak all the time tho?

No, if your oil pan gasket is the culprit, then when you park it, no oil can leak except for what's been thrown up there near the pan gasket. The oil level when parked is way below the engine block/oil pan seam, so if no oil is being thrown up there, then it won't leak again until there is.

What you may want to look at is the oil pressure sending unit.......pass. side above the oil filter. As those get older, the plastic portion of it can separate from the metal portion of it, ever so slightly and cause it to spray a very fine mist of oil that will be blown rearward when moving down the road and therefore make you think the oil is coming from the rear of the block somewhere..........this is way more common than you would think also! Clean it all up real good around the oil filter and sender area, then take it for a drive (get the oil good and warmed up) and see if you have fresh oil in that area when you get back from your drive.

Agree: Ultra Grey sealant, no gasket on the oil pan. That's what a factory mechanic in St. Louis told me a dozen years ago, that's what I did too. Yes - do not overtighten (anything); get a torque wrench, valuable, even Harbor Freight.

Its not my oil sending unit.its new. Like brannnnd new. And I did use a torque wrench .did I forget to mention this motor is freshly rebuilt..

Touch

So do you guys think I can get away with just the oil pan gasket or do I need to drop the windage tray too..I rtv between the block and the tray about 2 months ago. And do you spread the gray sealer on the oil pan and let it dry and then tighten it down or do you leave it wet and let all thatvmess squeeze out? Seems messy