Turbo question

From what I've been told by Angus Wiley, the 2.0 and 2.2 blocks are a bit different, the 2.2 has a boss on the drivers side near the firewall that's cast in for other mazda turbo engines, while the 2.0 doesn't, subtle differences but imo I'd rather drill and tap the block after having done it, than pop a hole in the oil pan

If you need fuel stuff, I have everything you need, I can feel it to you or provide a list - you'll need exactly what I have in my truck.

I'm looking to possibly go past 10psi, what are you asking? And what does it all include?

Your stock motor will need some help if you want to exceed 10psi - with that turbo you'll be making lots of power and you'll want at least a head gasket and studs.

your truck looks carb'd - are you switching to injection?

Also, I hope you read what I posted about bracing - if you don't do it, you'll be buying a new manifold soon.

I'd like to keep the carb, mainly for simplicity, and to be different from everyone else, also I do plan on going through the head probably next winter as I don't drive it in the winter, I have a 4x4 f150. I didn't brace it. The machine shop I took it to, ended up just cutting off the flange and flipping it, and re welding it back on, and they made a plate to flip the turbo out and welded it on. And I'll be doing about 5psi till I upgrade my fuel system. If you could post a picture of how you braced it that would be helpful. Something I could have done when I have the head being re done. Also when I do the head, would you suggest using a stock cam? Or ordering one from paeco? Or have one custom ground from comp or whoever else?
Thanks for the advice I really appreciate it

Damn really I didn't know that they were the same. I always thought that the 2.2 had slightly lower compression and the displacement was a little larger something like 158cu in. and the 2.0 was around 134 cu in. But that's awesome brotha that makes me a little more confident . Now is there any benefit to replacing my stock 2.0 head with the Probe head? And are we talking about the head from the factory turbo motor? Yeah I knew that the Probe turbo mani bolted up no problem do you know off the top of your head what size they factory turbo's are? I know they are internal wastegated which I was going to try and say away from but isn't a big deal I suppose since I will be running low boost anyways. I would imagine a smaller turbo would work better on our motors since the red line is fairly low that way I can actually build up some boost. Obviously the Probe/MX6 turbo i see alot of guys running or like a stock mitsubishi t25 turbo maybe a t3 but absolute biggest is what "B52fighter" is running the hybrid t3/t4. I wouldn't think you would want to run anything bigger tho.

AngusWilly is right about that I've boosted all of my Civic's most were built a couple were stock but always replaced with a metal head gasket and ARP head studs. My question is obviously by your comment above you are running FI, is that a difficult conversion or very costly? Like I told B52fighter earlier I'm shooting for 8-10 psi while trying to keep my internals mostly stock if possible. If I can make more than 10psi great but I mainly want to make sure it's reliable I hate replacing shit every month I'm trying not to spend a ton of money but I do want to do it right! Could you possibly send me a list of what I will need fuel wise and feel free to include anything else you suggest I would love to see a pic of your set up bro. Thanks man.

Soooo I feel stupid. I was getting ready to change my oil today and realized I do have the 2.2L this whole time I have just been reading out of the owners manual and looking at the wrong section. Wow I'm a tard.

Haha!

Well you learn something everyday - as long as you have your eyes open...

If yo are staying carb, I doubt you can do beyond 5psi very well - that is especially with the big turbo you have - at 5psi it'll probably make as much power as the stock probe turbo does at 10-12psi

Like I said, I know that manifold well and I have the exact same setup as you but mine has been fully re-welded because the first one cracked after a few days, it was FULLY braced and still cracked, the welds are not done properly when you buy it.

You can stick with the stock cam.

I think all you guys (if you haven't) should read "maximum boost" it turbo 101.

Keep in mind there is some info that is wrong now because of technology (but not much)