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Mazda Engine General \  Lack of power/poor mileage + surgeing

Lack of power/poor mileage + surgeing

Mazda Engine General Mazda Engine Mazda Tech
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jesse   +1y

haha sorry, that was me sucking on it, and letting off, 3 times.
i just wanted to show the range of movement....
mazdatweaker   +1y
post deleted
Post was last edited on May 13, 2009 02:05. This post has been edited 1 times.
jesse   +1y
if i keep sucking, yes it will stay there

i was hoping to test stuff more now that i'm home, but today were are getting what people are calling "snowmageddon"... ie. lots and lots of snow... with no garage my testing is put on hold for now :/

i bought a new fuel filter yesterday but yet to put it on... i might dig through the snow today to do it if i feel like it

fuel pump was recently replaced by previous owner just before selling, think wrong or faulty pump could cause this?

and i also want to do a compression test since it appears i'm losing a bit of oil now....

i honestly REALLY want this surging fixed, i can't comfortably get above 60km/h, which is a problem on some london roads... and if i push too hard i can't even get above 40km/h.. i hardly feel safe driving the thing right now cause of this.. stuck driving gf's cavalier for now

i might run out today and get a meter with dwell since i really want to know once and for all what it'll take to get this fixed :/
mazdatweaker   +1y
post deleted
Post was last edited on May 13, 2009 02:05. This post has been edited 1 times.
jesse   +1y

doesn't look like it does on the digital.. man i must have bought a cheap one.. my analog one goes down to 10vDC

unless... the digital has 200m, 2000m, 20, 200, 1000 vDC - is the 200m or 2000m 2vDC?
lowered_impressions   +1y
When you spray the cleaner the idle will drop if it's sucking it in somewhere. Also 2000mv is 2v so it should work. Try the seafoam shit it did wonders for my truck.
The stuff I used was a combustion chamber and carb cleaner, pured directly down the carb, so no raising of octane.

jesse   +1y
here's my digital multimeter:


and my analog one:


i might try to check for vacuum leaks a bit more today once the snow calms down... gotta run to bank anyway so the truck can warm up then



cool just like using it normally, i get it.
i saw some of the liquid stuff but decided to stick with the spray.. i guess the spray is better for stuff just near the top where the liquid will run through instead eh? maybe i'll try some of that too if these other things don't work...

and i was hoping 2000mv was 2v, it was going through my head that 2000 was 2vdc, and 200 was .2vdc, but happy for the confirmation
jesse   +1y
NEW symptoms.... initially bad, diagnostically could be good?

i just popped out to the bank... on the way there i was noticing around 40km/h i would get the surging again... got around onto a main road form a stop and the truck died. i put in park, and it took 6-8 times to start up giving it pumps of gas and it finally started and revved up.. so i put it in drive and made it to the bank.

i came back on back roads to avoid too much traffic, and most of the way back i could only get to about 30km/h before surging took over again, even with keeping the rev's low!

made it around a couple stops/corners, and in the middle of a stretch, truck died again. took just a couple tries to get started, and after getting started i was able to get up to 50-60km/h without it surging and made it home....


so.. this isn't consistent with higher rev's, not consistent with running temperature of engine... could it lead back to a faulty fuel pump that was put in? fuel filter? would alternator cause any of this since the truck was just dying after loss of power?

this is now just plain dangerous and i can't even take the truck out until it's fixed... arg!

any additional thoughts from anyone?
jesse   +1y
this is kind of for toddluck if he views this thread....

step 3 of fuel filter replacement from haynes manual:
"Locate the fuel filter, which is located under the vehicle, near the gas tank on early models, or on later models, is mounted on the inner fender panel (carburator) or on the firewall near the windshield wiper motor (fuel injection)"


so where i see mine IS the correct spot, and according to haynes i don't even need to release pressure or anything, just simply unclamp, replace, clamp back up and i'm done!

just simply a clamp on each side to loosen/tighten and i'm done.
blizzard or not, i'm doing this tomorrow!
Post was last edited on Dec 20, 2008 01:12. This post has been edited 1 times.
mazdatweaker   +1y
post deleted
Post was last edited on May 13, 2009 02:05. This post has been edited 2 times.