nytrdr24
+1y
You wouldn't really have to "tear anything apart" so to speak to disolve some of the myths, drop the oil pan, and look @ the crank & rods take a few pics, usually you can tell if they are forged or not if there is or isn't casting marks on those items, this would take all of 10 minutes, plus it might not be a bad idea to take a look see down there anyhow, especially since this motor prolly has been sitting for a bit, you could save yourselff a real headache if something were a-mis down there, also, a compression test would settle the comp ratio debate as well, you can get a kit from vatozone on loan and all you have to do is unscrew one of the spark plugs (if they are installed) and hand turn the engine over (which should be done after you prime the oil pump)...., the only other "myths" left to solve would be the size of the valves, the type of pistons, and the cam duration, all of which would require pulling the head, which you aren't interested in doing....
Did you get the turbo & FI mani for this engine too?, if not what kind of fuel induction are you gonna run? n/a with a stock mani off of the truck with a weber?, or stand alone, itb's and/or a turbo? also if you didn't get the mani & turbo, if you do a compression check, this would clue you into what kinda power the beast will make, if less than the stock 8.6:1, and no FI & T'bo, then depending on what you do run (stock mani & weber) you prolly won't get the stock hp that the 2.0 or 2.2 was rated at (@85-90hp respectively)....all in all, $1400 isn't too bad, Grooms, or Jasper engines charge in the neighborhood of $1800 for one of these engines and it's rebuilt, not a 0 mile true magnum, so heck you have the prestige of saving a few ben's, and it is one of the only true magnums if not the only real deal in a mazda inside the us, so props to you, and keep us posted on how things are going with your prize!!