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Mazda Projects \  1986 B2000 2.5 T Diesel FOR SALE $750obo

1986 B2000 2.5 T Diesel FOR SALE $750obo

Mazda Projects
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following 22
 
emjay   +1y
been slow on this lately, I got the mount welded up for the center support bearing, just need to find the missing bolts/nuts for it. Once in place, I can get the rear end lined up and some mounts fabricated.

This has gotten pretty slow since I've been dirt broke.
emjay   +1y
trailer update:
update, it's got paint. Not my best work, I was in a hurry and distracting my mind from the real world.
thread post photo


thread post photo


I'm not too worried about the inside of the bed, I have a liner, and was planning on the inside of the bed being black anyways. A little bit of new polyurethane caulking around the wheel wells, some grinding away of rust near the tailgate, and all will be good enough for utility use
up2nogood   +1y
Is that John Deere Green?
emjay   +1y
custom color, approximately 3 parts hunter green and 2 parts gloss black.
up2nogood   +1y
Nice, I like it!
emjay   +1y
Well, I had some business that I needed to take care of, but I'm back and working on this diligently. I needed to make some mounts for the rear axle. I'm starting on the front ones for now, I'm still going to need to get the angle of the axle right for the drive shaft since it only has one u-joint, and it is at the center support bearing.


Here is how they are going to sit on the frame.


Now I still need to figure out exactly how I am going to do the rear mounts. Once I figure out what exact angle will be needed to keep the drive shaft happy I'll know what height I need to make the rear mounts.
emjay   +1y
I'm trying to figure out how to make the mounts for the rear, I was thinking about doing it similar to the front ones, but the problem is that they would stick out at least 5 inches if I did it the same way. I was also thinking about putting in another cross member, then having the mounts welded to the cross member. The other fun thing is that the mount is going to be about 5-8" below the frame as well, which makes this trickier.



On the stock setup for the 300, the rear end only has about an inch or two height difference between the front and rear mounting points, but with the B series frame being higher in the rear than the front, and me having to angle the nose of the pumpkin up, that is going to increase the height difference between the two points.

NOTE** The rear end, springs and shocks are NOT centered in this picture.
that.minitrucker   +1y
Love seeing updates in this thread keep them coming. looks awesome

EDIT: Just curious you gonna leave it stock ride height or lower it? Seeing as there's a market for drop springs and shocks for the 300.
emjay   +1y
Yes, there are drop springs for the 300, but I'm not using the stock geometry as the 300, so I don't know what the height is actually going to be. My aim was to lift the truck, however the angle of the drive shaft is my limiting factor. Right now it appears that it is going to be a 1" drop from factory height.
emjay   +1y
Well the axle is bolted into place, kinda. I will be using thicker grade 8 bolts for the final installation.


Now I found another potential problem. I worked pretty hard to make sure that the motor, transmission, and center driveshaft bearing were centered in the truck, and they are. The problem is that they were NOT centered in the 300. I knew that the motor mounts were a little off in the 300 setup, a little bit more towards the passenger side, but I figured that this was to promote a slant on the motor and that the transmission and the rear diff were centered. This is where I was wrong. The rear diff's flange is a bit more towards the passenger side. I checked many times, the rear assembly is centered perfectly. This is what I have.



Anyways, since the assembly is centered, I was able to take some more measurements to figure out what dimensions I will need to make the rear assembly mounts. The rear mounts are going to be 7 inches out, and 10 inches below the frame. So what I am going to do is to make a cross member out of 2" X 3" 1/8" box steel, then make the mounts come off of the cross member.

I also figured out how I am going to handle the rear shock and coil spring mounts as well, it's actually quite easy. Remember when I was working on my trailer and I cut off all the cab and bed mounts? Well I'm reusing them

These are for the shocks:


to be installed somewhat like this:


And these are for the coil springs:



They will be installed between the frame and the new cross member.