1986 B2000 2.5 T Diesel FOR SALE $750obo

LOOKING GOOD BUDDY!!!!!

Got the corners welded on the plate. I still need to do the grinding on the inside to make sure that it's seemless and smooth. Note that the 4th corner is unwelded still, this is because I need it to hug the trans tunnel. I am going to have to do a cut and then hammer it to fit properly. When it's done though it'll fit nicely in there

found a diesel stack today, this is going onto Redemption (after mods of course.)



look at the size of the exhaust pipe that I found next to the stack. This was all stacked behind a friend's restaurant in a storm flood plane.



By the way, anyone from the Roswell area that took the other stack that I unearthed and staged for my return trip is a worthless SOB

notch plate is all ready to be welded into the B. Can't wait to do it, was COLD and WINDY when I was doing the adjustments. It's in the oven right now to get any moisture that might have gotten on the inside of it out.

so I got the notch installed on my firewall:

minor updates:
intake manifold and thermostat housing modifications. So they can fit lol.

Turbo mount and flange have been fabricated, just need to paint em.

Well here is a long overdue update. I've been spending the past couple of days trying to get the turbo taken apart. WHY DIDN'T ANYONE TELL ME THAT THE IMPELLER BOLT IS REVERSE THREADED?!?!? THERE WASN'T A SINGLE FAQ THAT MENTIONED THIS!!!!!

Anyways, I learned that the turbo is in trouble, the previous guy damaged the impeller in a way that I couldn't see it until I had the snail off. I'm thinking that he made the same mistake that I did. There were other things going on inside the turbo that I couldn't see that make more sense now.

Here's the turbo teardown:





















You can see that the inside was coked up, it's all nice and clean now. I am going to be getting a turbo rebuild kit for this, and now that the impeller and turbine are out I might try to get a pair that is more suitable for low RPMs of diesels.

But wait, I did more on this warm and comfortable day. I decided that I wanted to hammer out how I was going to route all the coolant lines. This is something that has been vexing me for a while, but soon to be no longer. The easier ones were done first as I had the materials to get this job done. Note that nothing is tightened down as of yet and I will be working on proper mounting hardware.

For the heater core plumbing:

Solid line that is going to go over the valve cover, near the washer lines, brake lines, fuel lines and part of the master harness. I am going to make some sort of bracket to make this all nice and neat by the time that it's done.



and here is the lower heater core port to the rear of the water pump. Note that I stuck the valve in the heater core to always open so the direction of the flow will be fine being the opposite as if it were a gas equivalent. The flap door will keep the cooler air coming in when I don't want heat, it's been resealed for better efficiency



and here is how I am going to find the right radiator hoses for this thing. One thing that sucks major *** on this one is that the ports on the motor are slightly larger in diameter than the ones on the radiator itself. The diesel uses bigger hoses. I should be fine though as I do have a backup plan involving a stainless steel reducer if I really need to. What I did to get the right shape of the hoses is to take something bendable but solid (like solid copper wire) and make the approx shape and length that I need. The white wire is for the upper hose and the black wire is for the lower hose:



I also figured that due to financial constraints I am probably going to be starting this engine up for the first time as a non-turbo. I am going to be doing it this way so I can

#1 make sure that everything on the inside is torqued down right. I don't want another rod through the side of the block.
#2 find leaks. Oil or coolant leaks while NA are a lot less damaging than for turbo.
#3 Verify that I don't need to send the injector pump to the repair shop because of leakage. If I do that'll be a few hundred dollars.
#4 Verify that the injector pump timing is spot on. If it's a little bit off and the EGTs are high while it's NA, the damage would be much higher under boost.
#5 I can let it idle while at home for a few hours (once verified that it's solid) then do an oil change to help keep the internals nice and clean, especially since it sat for quite a while.

did someone go koo koo over wanting new pics? here's some that puts me very close to the starting position

upper radiator hose and pipe:


Lower at the radiator:


Lower to the water pump:


Now that I got this mapped out, I need still to get that galvonized tee there out of the picture, going to replace with a black iron version (brass WAY too expensive,) get my line for my coolant gauge installed and routed, and install a wire that connects the IP to the ignition switch. Once that's done, I should be able to fire her up and look for leaks

really? NO replies? geez
well here's a small update. I had her all buttoned up minus the turbo trying to get her to fire up, just to learn that I have a fuel delivery issue. The IP is out and will need to be either repaired or replaced.