tucnrims Project "Sweet Dreams" update " 2 link is installed

needs a brokentoyz logo now

Looking good. How does it ride, and corner with the suspension that is in it now?

I just now seen that the leaf spring is still completely there, but they... cut them in half, and put bushings on the ends so it acts like a 6 link? That just isnt feasible at all. Please do not drive that thing anywhere. IMHO, you need to cut all that crap out starting at the back of the cab, build you a nice new simple backhalf, with a new link setup. I stay away from reverse setups.

yes todd a logo would be great.. i have drove it and it drives great, no body roll or anything.

all the links, springs, tabs, lower bag mounts are coming out, new crossmembers will go in and new link setup with heims and bushings.
question on a fitting. 1/2 inch fitting for my in dash gauge, how do you get it apart to get the line out so you can put new line on it?? am drawing a blank on this thing.. lol




it turns at the line,and i tried to pry and turn other places but to no availe..

push the line in... hold the ring up against the fitting and then pull the line out

It's a press lock.... Push hose in hold ring in and pull away from fitting should slide out.... Always cut tubing new after pulling out of press lock....

I have that link set up in my truck and although built well and issueless for almost ten years I hate the dynamics and the loudness of the hiem joints.... I have bushinged rod ends on my desk for my wish bone set up as soon as I finish narrowing a stock rearend....that link set up had blown out a pinion bearing also a one point doo the the rotational arc through the travel....

My gas tank sits about there too I raised mine at one end and experience fuel delivery issue past about 14 gallons ....

My gas tank on my S10 sits about 1" off the ground when laid out. No issues, as long as you don't drag on a bumpy road.

I'd stay away from reverse 4-link. Wheel-hop (although probably not a problem with dinky 4-cyl) and pulling out the driveshaft from the yoke or jamming it in too far (that's what she said!)

got the new (used) alt on and no flickering lights. is much better now, gonna work on the choke tomorrow. also got new line for my dash gauge and got that working again. need to pick up my 40 amp relay for the comp still.

ok, searched the net and seems to be right, found that the single wire is for the choke but it runs the the fuse block area on the drivers inner fender. the color is red with green dots, but all the ones i have seen is a yellow wire, the back of the choke the wire is cut and is yellow, so can i run a wire from that plug on the alt directly to the choke wire that is cut off on the back of the choke or??

decided to relocate my volt and oil gauge today. the pod looked horrible on the pillar. here is before pics:



got the heater fan switch out and did some cutting:


this is what was cut out:


reloacted the fan switch to here:



put back in waiting for the gauge install's:


all installed and wired up (still have to run the oil pressure wire to the sensor):




have some holes to fill in the interior pieces then will repaint them white, gonna wrap the door panels in black fabric in a week or so.

i figured how I am doing the rear link setup. I am going to make a cross member that goes over the gas tank from frame rail to frame rail and then I will be able to do a 4 link on it and keep the gas tank in the stock location.